Stator Issues St1050

Is it a oem part or an upgraded sator you bought ? do you have a link to the replacement sator you used?

 

The trouble is once the regulator/rectifier starts to go it has a knock on effect and will eventually destroy the stator windings.

 

Have you checked the wiring and connectors?

 

It always pays to also check the alternator if the you have had to change the regulator/rectifier due to charging problems IE leaky diodes etc as this can also allows current leakage back through the stator coils and burn them out.

 

https://www.triumphrat.net/speed-tr...-diagnostics-rectifier-regulator-upgrade.html

https://www.triumphrat.net/air-cool...please-comment-on-these-charging-figures.html

 

RM Stator have had a LOT of issues with using a very poor improperly cured resin on the coils that very quickly burns up and looks horrendous after only a few hrs of running - I've seen quite a few examples of this on different forums recently. It won't affect the electrical performance, but is a serious mess and that stuff gets into your oil system. I personally wouldn't touch one in a gift.
If your stator shows evidence of that, even though it passes the following test, I would get it out of there regardless.

The very simple acid test for a stator, is to measure its electrical isolation from ground - measure resistance between any one of the three terminals to engine ground - this should be OPEN (i.e. infinite resistance) - if you get 'SHORT' (zero or close to zero resistance) then stator is bad. That's only test you need (notwithstanding the physical deterioration noted above)

The only ground the R/R requires is the output wire from the device itself. The heatsink body of the R/R is not even connected to ground and is isolated. So adding a ground strap will make no difference.

I'm unclear about your last post

.
Do you mean you were checking the output voltage of the R/R without it being connected? (most R/R will not work at all in this condition - have no idea about that brand of R/R)
But I don't follow what you mean if you say it was unplugged but voltage at the battery was 13.8, but maybe you mean at the wires(disconnected) going to the battery and not battery itself?
Even if that brand of R/R does work without being connected to battery, there is no current load, so voltage numbers are meaningless.
Your reported 14.8V from when first installed seems awfully high and would be concerned it was even higher at higher rpm still - was this voltage with full load, headlights on etc?

One very common issue with Shunt MOSFET R/R is that you get a LOT of heat dissipated in an often-poor electrical connector from stator to R/R, which results in burning of the connector. This should be fairly obvious however and especially when doing diagnostics I'm sure you would have noticed that

Do the stator test I advised - if it's short, then it is toast - the end.

The best stator you can get is from RicksMotorSportElectrics in the US - however they ship WorldWide and their customer service is excellent.

 

https://www.electrexworld.co.uk/acatalog/Application_List.html#triumph
I like these guys, there stuff is quality kit
The rectifier connects directly to the stator and then directly to the batter NOT through the loom, their wires are a larger guage to reduce resistance
I fitted one to my 2010 Speed Triple and voltage across the battery sent from 13.6 to 14.5...much healthier for my Lithium battery

 

Note, you may/will have to do the wiring to connect the stator as the cable plugs may not fit those used by Triumph