Stator Issues St1050

Discussion in 'Technical Help' started by Streaky_Wull, Jul 14, 2019.

  1. This site uses cookies. By continuing to use this site, you are agreeing to our use of cookies. Learn More.
  1. Streaky_Wull

    Streaky_Wull New Member

    Jul 14, 2019
    2
    3
    Lanarkshire
    Could anyone give me some advise, i have a 06 ST Sprint.

    I've had it 3 year now, every now and then after a run it would have a low charge in the Battery as if it was barely holding a charge, i replaced the Battery last year and eventually started doing the same as the old Battery.

    I checked the Battery fully charged, engine off it was 12.8v, when started was 11.9v even at 4000rpm voltage wouldn't move 11.9v

    In April, I checked AC voltage of the Stator it was all over the place and 1 of the windings wasn't getting any reading at all. I took Stator cover off and 1/3 of the Stator was badly burned and kind of corroded looking, other 1/3 was quite black as if burnt oil on it. I ordered a new one, fitted it, checked the voltage's. At idle 12.3v and at 4000rpm also 12.3v.

    I took the rectifier off checked the diodes and 1 off them wasn't reading properly. I ordered a mosfet rectifier. Fitted it and checked voltages, at Idle 13.8v and at 4000rpm 14.8v. Bike was running perfect.

    Well yesterday after a nice run, the bike wouldn't start, the Battery would barely turn the bike over. Today after charging battery overnight. I checked voltages and its not charging. Unpluged stator to check AC voltage and it was fluctuating all over the place. Opened stator cover and its burned out like the one i replaced in April.

    Does anyone have any idea what would cause a brand new Stator to burn out in 4 month?
     
  2. Sprinter

    Sprinter Kinigit

    Aug 17, 2014
    5,185
    800
    Grampian.
    Is it a oem part or an upgraded sator you bought ? do you have a link to the replacement sator you used?
     
  3. Streaky_Wull

    Streaky_Wull New Member

    Jul 14, 2019
    2
    3
    Lanarkshire
    • Like Like x 1
  4. Tricky-Dicky

    Tricky-Dicky Senior Member

    Dec 12, 2016
    643
    243
    Norfolk UK
    The trouble is once the regulator/rectifier starts to go it has a knock on effect and will eventually destroy the stator windings.
     
  5. Streaky_Wull

    Streaky_Wull New Member

    Jul 14, 2019
    2
    3
    Lanarkshire
    I'm at a loss why it would burn itself out in 4 month, when everything was reading prefect, yesterday was the first sign anything wrong was with a flat battery after a run.
     
  6. Sprinter

    Sprinter Kinigit

    Aug 17, 2014
    5,185
    800
    Grampian.
    Have you checked the wiring and connectors?
     
  7. Streaky_Wull

    Streaky_Wull New Member

    Jul 14, 2019
    2
    3
    Lanarkshire
    I checked and the battery while it was running, noticed it wasnt charging. I unplugged the rectifier to the Battery started the engine and the DC voltage to battery was fluctuating a bit. 13.8v at idel when i rev it the voltage would drop. I unplugged the stator to the rectifier to check the AC voltage at 4000 rpm and it was all over the place with 1 of the phases not even sending a voltage. So then i opened the stator cover and to my horror it was 1/3 burnt out.

    Ive seen people say to make sure the rectifier has a good ground earth wire. My rectifier is bolted to an aluminium plate as supplied. in place of the old mount. which is on a flimsy bracket on the right hand side with all the relays bolted on to it as well.

    Do you think if i add a ground wire from the plate to the chassis? that would solve the excess current which i think may have burned the stator out.
     
  8. Streaky_Wull

    Streaky_Wull New Member

    Jul 14, 2019
    2
    3
    Lanarkshire
    Yes ive checked wiring for shortages and proper connections.
     
    • Like Like x 1
  9. Tricky-Dicky

    Tricky-Dicky Senior Member

    Dec 12, 2016
    643
    243
    Norfolk UK
    It always pays to also check the alternator if the you have had to change the regulator/rectifier due to charging problems IE leaky diodes etc as this can also allows current leakage back through the stator coils and burn them out.
     
  10. D'Ecosse

    D'Ecosse Well-Known Member

    Jun 23, 2019
    108
    83
    CA, USA
    #12 D'Ecosse, Jul 14, 2019
    Last edited: Jul 14, 2019
    RM Stator have had a LOT of issues with using a very poor improperly cured resin on the coils that very quickly burns up and looks horrendous after only a few hrs of running - I've seen quite a few examples of this on different forums recently. It won't affect the electrical performance, but is a serious mess and that stuff gets into your oil system. I personally wouldn't touch one in a gift.
    If your stator shows evidence of that, even though it passes the following test, I would get it out of there regardless.

    The very simple acid test for a stator, is to measure its electrical isolation from ground - measure resistance between any one of the three terminals to engine ground - this should be OPEN (i.e. infinite resistance) - if you get 'SHORT' (zero or close to zero resistance) then stator is bad. That's only test you need (notwithstanding the physical deterioration noted above)

    The only ground the R/R requires is the output wire from the device itself. The heatsink body of the R/R is not even connected to ground and is isolated. So adding a ground strap will make no difference.

    I'm unclear about your last post
    .
    Do you mean you were checking the output voltage of the R/R without it being connected? (most R/R will not work at all in this condition - have no idea about that brand of R/R)
    But I don't follow what you mean if you say it was unplugged but voltage at the battery was 13.8, but maybe you mean at the wires(disconnected) going to the battery and not battery itself?
    Even if that brand of R/R does work without being connected to battery, there is no current load, so voltage numbers are meaningless.
    Your reported 14.8V from when first installed seems awfully high and would be concerned it was even higher at higher rpm still - was this voltage with full load, headlights on etc?

    One very common issue with Shunt MOSFET R/R is that you get a LOT of heat dissipated in an often-poor electrical connector from stator to R/R, which results in burning of the connector. This should be fairly obvious however and especially when doing diagnostics I'm sure you would have noticed that

    Do the stator test I advised - if it's short, then it is toast - the end.

    The best stator you can get is from RicksMotorSportElectrics in the US - however they ship WorldWide and their customer service is excellent.
     
    • Like Like x 2
  11. Red Thunder

    Red Thunder Elite Member
    Subscriber

    Dec 2, 2014
    1,443
    700
    High Wycombe
    https://www.electrexworld.co.uk/acatalog/Application_List.html#triumph
    I like these guys, there stuff is quality kit
    The rectifier connects directly to the stator and then directly to the batter NOT through the loom, their wires are a larger guage to reduce resistance
    I fitted one to my 2010 Speed Triple and voltage across the battery sent from 13.6 to 14.5...much healthier for my Lithium battery
     
  12. Red Thunder

    Red Thunder Elite Member
    Subscriber

    Dec 2, 2014
    1,443
    700
    High Wycombe
    Note, you may/will have to do the wiring to connect the stator as the cable plugs may not fit those used by Triumph
     
  13. Streaky_Wull

    Streaky_Wull New Member

    Jul 14, 2019
    2
    3
    Lanarkshire
    #15 Streaky_Wull, Jul 17, 2019 at 2:01 AM
    Last edited: Jul 17, 2019 at 11:46 AM
    The wiring is fine from the Stator to the Rectifier and the Rectifier then connects directly to the battery.

    On other forums i was browsing some people were saying to make sure the Rectifier is properly earthed, i was just curious if that was possibly a cause.

    Do yous think that the Stator was poor quality?

    I will order 1 from RicksMotorSportElectrics..
     
Loading...

Share This Page