FUCK OFF YA CESMB's !!!!! Aye, I am a tight bastard, but I am also a feckin lazy bastard as well, and rather than fuck about, I would look see what your local stealer or that dealer that have the parts list on their site (and a very nice young lady in the parts dept, she sounds lovely, might be a right minger, but I got touch on flirting with her ). Sometimes they are silly expensive (any bike panel, especially if it has a bit of paint on it), but sometimes parts like that can be silly cheap and not worth the fucking about. I snapped something on the Land Rover when we first got it, asked how much expecting £40+ and it was £3.26 or something like. Always worth checking in my book. Just seen its £15 !!! tell tae git tae fuck , make one up for less than that
Just having a lunchtime snifter (Rum of course), Nice and sunny 28*........................................................................................................................................ Right................ Lets talk Top boxes? Is it still in one piece? Any price increases, sold many on the forum from DDDTBE?
Whereas 2m of cable and the requisite lugs cost me less than a fiver. Plus now I get the fun of bodging
Bodge away. I don’t want to sound harsh but wasn’t the obvious thing always to splice a new bit on the corroded end with the joint tucked out of sight?
That was plan A but the existing cable is tough as old boots. Taking the chance to put a more flexible one in that will be easier to refit (splicing to the old would require removing it from the bike anyway)
Made up and fitted a new cable and after a little coaxing she started. Weather's awful and I'm a couple of beers deep so no test ride tonight. Hopefully it doesn't snow tomorrow like it's forecast to. For reference, as a makeshift crimper I popped the terminal in a vice with an M4 nut pushed in against it and put a length of steel pipe over the vice handle for extra leverage. Doubt I could have got a more secure joint even with the proper tools.
Left off the solder since there appears to be a long running debate as to whether it makes the joint too stiff or brittle. Put heat shrink and a good layer of dielectric grease to keep crud out
Lead and tin alloy brittle? Not the last time I checked!!! In fact probably one of the least brittle metals around. But if you've heat shrinked it, that should be OK. P. S. - you don't actually believe everything that's said on here?
Not the solder itself so much as the fact that if it wicks up the wire it creates a stiff section. If it's going to snap it with be at the edge of this area. Not likely know on a wire of that gauge but soldering didn't seem necessary any how. I've certainly seen it on lighter gauge wires. I use other, less sociable, triumph forums for reference but they do lack such quality banter.
Spoke to Mech at work this week he was making an Earth for a bus battery 24v He wasnt using solder,When I asked he said 'I would use it but I dont have any , though this will be fine' There are other forums?
https://www.wikihow.com/Anneal-Copper Makes it less brittle, thats why you use crimps. Crimping doesn't alter the hardness like soldering does. As Basil Fawlty would say "Sybil, you know best darling!"
Yes, And? Less brittle, so therefore like snap!! But over a short space of time the copper will return to it prior state. If you heat your copper sump plug washers up, you can reuse, i do. Look, I crimp and chuck solder in, nobody else has to, just what I have always done and as I never had a subsequent failure, will continue to.
Point taken Mr.O. I was just giving my view. If you use the right tool to crimp the lug on, it will not come off. I can see that the added security of solder adds peace of mind, but it is really not needed! Hey what do I know .................. and its a forum.................. everyone talks shit!
