Wheel removal

Right all ready to get the wheels off, spent almost £100 and I haven't touched the bike yet lol

 

They are an investment when you're doing your own maintenance. Buy quality tools and look after them n they will last you a very long time ;-)

 

You'll save a ton in undamaged parts too

 

Yeah nice to have the correct tools, couldn't stretch to expensive torque wrenches like norbar as recommended. But should be ok for what I want.

 

Remember when you have finished with the torque wrench put it at the lowest setting for storage

 

Will do

 

I know it too well during my early days of biking :-(. Lesson learned n invested in decent kit over the years n taken good care of them

 

Just taken the rear wheel off, when doing so, didn't notice what order the spacers came off.
Think it's red anodised first then thin spacer then concave thick spacer and nut. With outer edge of concave spacer facing in???

 

Tapered rounded edge facing the nut

 

You are correct
Taff

 

I had the same issue then realised that conical washes acts like a spring. Just as Darkman & Taff said

 

Amazing how many belleville washers are fitted the wrong way round.

 

Its an old idea that was used years ago on some old wheel bearings on British bikes and were used to preload, you had to pack them with grease back then as they were open with no rubber seals like today and they called them dust covers

 

well when the dealer fitted the new tyre they fitted the convex washer wrong way round first then flat then the nut
in fairness it was a suzuki dealer
now refitted the correct way round

 

Has anyone experienced the left side of the axle turning and not allowing the axle to be removed? This is happening to me. Everything seems to be fine except the left side is spinning while trying to unthread the axle from the right side. Any info is appreciated.

 

If the axle is spinning then the wheel is spinning with it. You need to lock it up by applying the rear brake while loosening the nut. You need an assistant to stand on the brake while you do the spannering.

 

I also have 3 TW's that cover all bases. A Halfords "professional" 8-60Nm 3/8" drive, a Williams Autotorque 20-140 Nm 1/2" drive and a Draper 70-395Nm 3/4" drive.
In the past when I didn't have a small enough TW to hand I've used a socket, T handle and a spring balance to get the required lb/ft setting . I've also used this method to get the correct start torque when adjusting items like steering and transmission components.