Need Help Identifying Loose Tubes

Discussion in 'Technical Help' started by Tim - Sprint ST 1050, Sep 25, 2025.

  1. TRIPLE X

    TRIPLE X Senior Member

    Sep 1, 2021
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    OK, now it looks like it might be electrical. Is the MIL (Malfunction Indicator Lamp) light on. If so it needs dlagnostics connecting to identify a fault code. I would check that the battery connections are nice and tight as Boothman has suggested.
     
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  2. TRIPLE X

    TRIPLE X Senior Member

    Sep 1, 2021
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    Also check the wiring for damage where it passes the frame headstock. What I cannot understand is how all those rubber hoses became disconnected as it's impossible for them to vibrate free if they were properly seated?
     
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  3. Tim - Sprint ST 1050

    Sep 25, 2025
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    It's baffling me too, I wonder in when it was serviced a couple months ago if they weren't seated properly though I'm not sure if they were checked because the water drain from round the cap was blocked but it seems unlikely that all 3 came loose also they didn't change the filter but did change the spark plugs so would have had to remove the air box but I have ride it with no problems a couple times since so doubt it was them
     
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  4. Tim - Sprint ST 1050

    Sep 25, 2025
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    I'm going to take it apart again tomorrow and will check the connections again and charge the battery tho I don't have a diagnostic to plug in unfortunately
     
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  5. TRIPLE X

    TRIPLE X Senior Member

    Sep 1, 2021
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    Who serviced it?
     
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  6. Tim - Sprint ST 1050

    Sep 25, 2025
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    A local garage that's been in business for more than 20 years so should be ok
     
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  7. TRIPLE X

    TRIPLE X Senior Member

    Sep 1, 2021
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    #27 TRIPLE X, Sep 30, 2025
    Last edited: Sep 30, 2025
    Sorry, but the only conclusion I can come to is that those pipes were disconnected to remove the tank and airbox and never put back. Plus the airbox wasn't refitted properly as one of the spring rings was displaced and the air filter wasn't changed despite it being a full service.
     
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  8. Tim - Sprint ST 1050

    Sep 25, 2025
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    Well I can tell you your probably right about the pipes cos there there doesn't seem to be much other explanation but unfortunately none of them should have cause this issue from what's been said, I took the seat off and battery connections are solid so I took the battery connections off and cleaned them up just to be sure but I dropped the nut out the battery like an idiot so gonna continue tomorrow thoof I charge the battery and it still doesn't work I think I'm lost
     
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  9. Boothman

    Boothman Elite Member

    Jul 26, 2023
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    #29 Boothman, Sep 30, 2025
    Last edited: Sep 30, 2025
    Assume the MIL light is the yellow one (screen shot from @Tim - Sprint ST 1050 video) as from what I can see the tank is full so not a low fuel lamp or is it an ABS light.

    upload_2025-9-30_21-12-33.jpeg

    EDIT - Not fuel light as watched the video again and the low fuel light is next to the neutral lamp
     
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  10. Tim - Sprint ST 1050

    Sep 25, 2025
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    #30 Tim - Sprint ST 1050, Sep 30, 2025
    Last edited: Sep 30, 2025
    Your correct it has a full tank tho after trying to start the fuel light does come on which you can see right near the end of the video after trying to start it the second time which I have uploaded a pic of

    Edit - not sure if thats supposed to happen when it doesn't start because the oil light comes on at the same time

    Screenshot_20250930_213439_YouTube.jpg
     
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  11. Boothman

    Boothman Elite Member

    Jul 26, 2023
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  12. Tim - Sprint ST 1050

    Sep 25, 2025
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    18
    England
    Yes sorry for the delay I had to order more nuts for the battery terminal then charge the battery and the ran a repair cycle on it too just to be sure and great news, it started tho that does leave me with the dilemma as to why is ran out mid ride unless it wasn't charging but all cables are seated and connected properly so that is as yet unclear but unfortunately I won't be able to take it on a test ride till Wednesday but I'm leaving the battery on trickle charge till then to be sure
     
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  13. Boothman

    Boothman Elite Member

    Jul 26, 2023
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    That’s good news - potentially if the battery terminals were not solid then the engine running wouldn’t have been able to charge it effectively and hence it stopping whilst riding. There is also the risk that the engine isn’t providing a charge, but that should be measurable on a metre with the engine running (so not needing a test ride). Someone with more knowledge should be able to advise what readings you should be getting.
    It might be better your starting a new thread as this one about tubes is not going to attract the same interest for someone with electrical charging knowledge.
     
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  14. Tim - Sprint ST 1050

    Sep 25, 2025
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    18
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    The only thing is it wasn't until I removed the battery and lost one of the nuts that it was missing, before that the bike was electronically connected both at the ground and terminals perfectly, thankyou for your help I'll give it a ride round and if it does again I'll certainly be back as everyone on here has been mega extremely helpful, I'm wondering if it is where the bike had been sitting around for a while before I started it that day and then only Road for about a mile and then it had been sitting for another hour and then when we went out for our ride the battery had been drained too low by being sat around unused
     
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  15. Boothman

    Boothman Elite Member

    Jul 26, 2023
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    Hmmmm - That does sound more like the bike isn’t charging the battery then. If the battery manages to start the bike then once started the battery charge isn’t used as such to run the bike if alls well as the reg/rectifier arrangement should be pushing out enough to run lights, ignition, etc and still be charging the battery. If the engine is not charging the battery then the battery is powering the ignition etc and at some point wont have enough in it to keep the bike running.
     
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  16. TRIPLE X

    TRIPLE X Senior Member

    Sep 1, 2021
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    #36 TRIPLE X, Oct 5, 2025
    Last edited: Oct 5, 2025
    Agree it is worth checking that the bike is charging the battery. A fully charged battery should be around 12.8v. Start and warm up the engine then check the battery voltage with a multimeter and it should be around 14v when the engine is revved but not more than around 15v or it could be overcharging.
     
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  17. Tim - Sprint ST 1050

    Sep 25, 2025
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    18
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    Yeah that makes perfect sense grab will have to test it and if it runs out again after it's been left on Trick or charge then I will know that the battery has not been charged but fingers crossed and thanks again for all the information
     
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  18. Tim - Sprint ST 1050

    Sep 25, 2025
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    18
    England
    Hey guys just wanted to give you a quick update after all your help, I charged the battery then ran a repair mode on it (whatever that does I'm not sure but thought it might be worth a try) then when that was done I left it on trickle charge then today I took the bike out for a test ride and after about half hour it decided to die on me again (whist waiting at a level crossing just as the barrier was about to go up :weary_face:) it has now been recovered again and tomorrow I am going to locate my multimeter or buy another and then test the voltage like suggested and go from there
     
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  19. Boothman

    Boothman Elite Member

    Jul 26, 2023
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    Sounds like the engine isn’t charging the battery to me
     
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  20. Tim - Sprint ST 1050

    Sep 25, 2025
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    18
    England
    Yeah completely agree now I just have to try and find out why tho really really hoping it's a blown fuse or something cheap and simple, first test will be the voltage and that should give some indication
     
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