you havent said what youve done to the motor, aside from the tiger head and the routt cylinders. whats going on in there? carbs? ignition? cams? fess up whered you get the tank?
The engine was a US import back to it's homeland. It must have originally been a UK model due to the T120V engine stamp rather than the US T120R stamp. But no idea of the history there other than it came from Baltimore (wherever that is). The engine is out of another bike so the head and barrels went on for that build. Nothing special in there as I just try to get them running to pootle around on rather than tearing it up these days, so pretty sure just standard cams and followers. The tank is from Redmax and is a UK made item (I think). I'll line it once the drybuild is sorted as I'm fed up with leaks appearing after completed builds (even after pressure testing) these days. I've just laid on a tail section that I made up from another build to see. I haven't shortened the subframe as much on this one (about 3 inches) so I can get my arse a bit further back. Still thinking about rearsets or just sticking to standard with western bars. But coming along I think.
Baltimore was the east coast home of Tri-cor one of two main Triumph importers back in the day. JoMo was the west coast dealer in Colorado
My understanding is that the R stood for 'Roadster' that the rebellious colony type chaps and chapesses liked the sound of and were stamped as such. Although, as usual, this was not always the case (pardon the pun). Pre and post '71 stampings were not consistently stamped correctly, there's T120, T120R, TR6C T120V, T120RV, T120CV, TR6RV etc etc. Rebuilds with matched or non matched casings when big ends came adrift, pushrods pushed their way out or chains broke. There's also the 'forgeries' on the expensive C models - @darkman would know more about that than the rest of us. Personally, I don't care about the numbering, as long as the bike works, but investors like the home brewed (non R) matching numbers shiney ones. Tyres on - hooray. 120 rear, 110 front Metzelers Few more bits to get, then up on your feet my lad......
Taken me ages to figure it out. Something just wasn't right when getting it up on it's feet. After measuring this and lining up that, using flat surfaces etc the blimmin' yokes are twisted bugger. Who knows what caused it, probably a shunt I would guess. I suppose the application of fire and leaning on old inserted stanchions could sort them but........yes, a hidden crack could expose itself just when I wouldn't want it to. So, in the bin they go as I will not knowingly pass on a problem to someone else. More parts for the order list. At least I know what was bothering me now. Such fun.....over....
ive untwisted bent yokes with a big cheater bar. no heat. theyre not as stiff as you would have thought.
Happy 403rd Thanksgiving to our best loved friends and colony on that side of the pond. Those first English pilgrims and Wampanoags who started it all off are rightly celebrated for their actions and thoughts. And long may it continue. Happy Thanksgiving you beloved lot - enjoy the turkey and apple pie.
New yokes, new stanchions and we're back on our feet with new discs and sprocket. The sub frame is cut and welded back on an inch or so longer than the last build so I can get my arse back a bit.
As I am officially getting on in years (I have received my bus pass I'll have you know) I thought I'd make my life a tad easier by using the block and tackle to lift the engine in. Blimey, it didn't help at all. In fact it made it almost impossible to move and fiddle the engine in as is required with these. So went back to the old way of man handling the bloody great heavy thing in. Phew... They aren't getting easier to lift. Dangled the 2 inch zorsts on just to see and I'm quite pleased so far.......over.....
Lining up the zorsts, mounting on the bottom engine long bolt and using a cranked kick start so I can keep the length seems to bhe working so far. Takes a goodly amount of time to centralise the back wheel, aligning it with the front sprocket and measuring for spacers. Really pleased that my offset wheel guesstimate on the back looks to be working for the larger rim and tyre size. Note the drawings on the lift so I don't forget the sizes to make. I'm kinda diggin' the drag bars - I might keep them once I get the correct p clamps. Gonna go black I think with either cherry red flames or maybe even ghost flames over gold.
over here people have good luck laying the frame on its side and then lowering the motor in from the right? probably. i still do the 130 lb heave ho as well, but all i have to do is pick it up from the bench stand, turn around, and lower into the frame on the lift. i didnt intend it that way, but it works real well as these motors get heavier.
Yes, I'd had the engine in the frame using that method. (That's always how I did Jap bikes 'cause the big engines were miles too heavy). I got carried away and all excited about getting it up on it's feet after finding out the yokes were twisted. Then thought I'd use the dolly on the beam to get the engine in. Got fed up with that and just picked the bloody thing up. You are correct, I must be more careful in future, I'm not getting any younger or stronger. I'll try using the block and tackle on the frame when taking it apart for paint, lay it on it's side, and lift the frame off the engine. It's bound to help with not damaging the paint on the rebuild. I've got one more T140 to build after this one so by then I should have it off pat.
