Featured 1976 One For 2022

Thanks club aficionados, oh, and Bob.

 

Brushed the 'Made in England' on the side panels. Will leave alone for a bit while I have a bit of a think about it before I do the clear coat.



In the mean time I thought I'd be a bit more scientific about doing the electrics. Cool man ✌.
I normally work my way through by splitting it into power, lights, brakes, warnings etc. Although it generally works ok doing it like that I tend to end up with a pile of spaghetti. I then try to tidy that all up afterwards. This time I'd like to be organised.
So I'm gonna do a drawing. But not any regular drawing. I'm gonna overlay it on the bike. Aha, you clever bugger.
Made a start



I've overlaid the main elements onto a photo of the actual bike. I think I've got everything I normally have:

1 Ignition switch, 3 way (on, off and I want to turn the lights on or off)
2 Alternator
3 Regulator/Rectifier
4 Battery
5 Ignition Unit
6 Points
7 Coils
8 Spark Plugs
9 Speedo
10 Front Brake Switch
11 Back Brake Switch
12 Back light
13 High/Low Headlight Switch
14 Front Light
15 Hooter Button
16 Hooter
17 Oil Pressure Switch
18 Battery Charge Warning Light
19 Oil Pressure Warning Light

I'm hoping that I can now wire everything up by drawing coloured lines on the picture. Then actually making up a wiring loom in parts, on the bench, that fits onto the bike all bundled up to suit. I'll be amazed, and very pleased, if this works because I don't really like doing the wiring. But if I can make it neat and solder it all up so nothing can come loose I'll be well chuffed. Over....

 

2 Pack clear on. Will leave for a few days before polishing and will bung them on just to see what it looks like before the dismantle for powder

 

Polishing done. Which is a right arse. Temp put the tins back on to have a look. Hmmmm....don't think I'm that enamoured with the side panels. S'ok though 'spose. But they may well go back to black. Is that the Stones?

 

Yes, back to black methinks. The 45s are now gone. They look a bit wide as well now the seat is narrower than the frame. Hmmm, think I may get the metalworking hammer out. Decisions decisions.
Come along! This needs to come apart, make your mind up man.

I daren't ask the Admin Staff.

Ok, I did. I'm off to buy some steel. S'alright, I'll get my own coat, thank you.......over.....

 

Nope, changed my mind again. I'm doing traditional proper black painted frame etc and leave the side panels black with Bonneville painted on.
Phew, happier now . That was all a bit stressful, no wonder I've got a rash.

Edit * I happened to have met up with @Adie P at a service station in a very secret location. The Admin Staff took me as there was a large erm....item to deliver so she took me in her car. (No, it wasn't the crate with the drum in).
Quite rightly, they both ganged up on me in the car park, as I had some, what I understand now, to have been a disillusioned idea to get it all chromed. Yes, it was wrong of me, what was I thinking. I'm putting it down to owning a Hardley Movingsome for a while which just wont work unless chrome items are added at regular intervals. Thanks @Adie P and the Admin Staff......over...

 

Have to order some brake lines. No point just going online to order for a 1976 T140V unless it's just to use the standard master cylinders, rubber lines etc. So there's some measuring and figuring out to do.
This is what's there at the back brake. The existing brake caliper has to join up with the new master cylinder with new hoses, banjos and banjo bolts.



The brake light switching will be taken care of by using electrical switching banjo bolts. These operate an electrical switch when pressure builds up in the brake line (i.e. when the brake pedal/lever is pressed to operate the pistons in the caliper that press onto the disc brake that stop the wheel rotating).
They look like a normal banjo bolt with two wires that connect into the wiring to operate the brake light.



I'm planning on using these for both the front and back brake switches. Vintage bikes only legally need to have a back brake light connected so watch out for that if you decide to get a proper motorcycle and wonder why cars are nearly ramming you up the arse every time you only use the front brake.

 

Careful measuring and planning is required to ensure the correct parts are ordered. Hydraulic parts are quite expensive so some thought is needed to get things right.
This is a mock up of old banjos, hose etc to check how the hose is going to run and what length is needed. The hoses are ordered for the length between the banjos.



There's different types of hoses. Some have a solid joint at each end that requires the whole hose to be turned so that it screws onto the banjos. Venhill do a hose that has independent nuts at each end that can be screwed onto the banjos without the need to turn the hose. These ones are easier to fit but they require a different type of banjo so old banjos can't be used.
So, fairly easy to lay on an old piece of hose, mark it up with a felt tip and measure the length. In this case 180 to 190mm. (Edit note - Venhill's closest was 200mm so that'll do)

The banjos will be as the old ones each one with a 20 degree bend to give the hose slow bends with no kinks.

Then the banjo bolts need to be sorted. These have all sorts of threads and lengths. In this case there's a vintage caliper and a metric master cylinder.

 

The vintage caliper connecting banjo bolt is easily sorted. From 1979 Triumph used banjos rather than the male type connector that was a bit of a pain to get sorted if there was issues. Here it is in the parts catalogue



It's part number 28. Also notice that the inside copper washer (part number 30) is a thick washer.



So, note down the part numbers and get them ordered. Sorted.

Then there's the electrical switched banjo bolts that are going to be bolted into the master cylinder. The thread needs to be checked on these so that the correct size is ordered. The master cylinder is off of a Yamahadasaki of some sort so metric.
Measure the diameter of the bolt first, across the threads. In this case 10mm therefore it's an M10.
Then check with a cheap little thread check tool like this (they come in all thread types, this one is metric, as you can see)

 

Metric banjo bolts are usually 1.0 or 1.25. So use the tool and find the one that fits the bolt that easily screws into the master cylinder. If there's no tool available just order up some M10 bolts at 1.0, 1.25 and 1.5 any length will do. Easily available and cheap from your local friendly hardware store. Try for the easy fit and there's your thread size.



In this case it's 1.25. So that's the bolt to order. M10 by 1.25 by whatever length is available. Electrical banjos are normally only available in one length which is usually the length that works (but they can be adjusted by using extra washers or cutting if need be)

Again, not using the standard front master cylinder in this case. Need to connect the front caliper to the master cylinder on the handlebars.



Go through the same rigmarole as the back one using old spare hoses etc that are lying around.



Allow enough hose for the suspension to operate without pulling everything apart. The banjo bolts are the same as the back brake so order those up too. Here's my ordering sketches



All up it's around the £150 mark and not available just through one supplier. But now the wheels will skid using just the pinkie rather than having to stand on the pedal.......over.....