I recently performed and now the clutch won't disengage (when putting the bike into gear it jumps and stalls). I have tried to get it unstuck with some simple tricks I found on YouTube but nothing worked. I tore the bike down again, picked the clutch plates off and put them in an oil bath, making sure every plate got coated well. I later assembled it back together and the clutch still doesn't work. I have gone trough the mechanic book several times and everything is fitted the right way. Any suggestions? Thanks
Very good tips! The clutch feels and looks to be functioning properly! When I release the clutch lever it snaps back like it should. If I look down the oil filling hole I am able to see the clutch move...
In the end of last summer my clutch springs broke. I have done alot of maintenance this winter including dropping the motor and replacing seals. During this time the clutch sat dry for about 3 months... Now that I've got it all together I tried going for a shake down ride around the block and I couldn't even get rolling. When having the back wheel raised off the ground I can shift into gear (the gearbox is OK). I have had the clutch apart three times now and still no progress... Cheers
Clutch does not engage at all Binding in linkage or cable due to corrosion Bent linkage Seized slave cylinder Seized throw out bearing Failed pressure plate diaphragm Failed friction plate
Sorry, a bit of an aside, but have you removed the sump and made sure it is completely clear of bits of broken spring? I mention this because my bike suffered broken springs and a bit of spring found it's way into the oil pump shattering it and requiring an engine strip!
Hi! Yes! I dropped the motor out of the frame and made sure the gearbox was not damaged! While doing that I removed fragment of broken springs!
That is the logical conclusion. The problem is in the actuator. It sounds like the vertical rod is not engaged with the lifter pin. The clutch lever will operate under the resistance of the cable spring (albeit more easily) but the clutch will remain clamped by its own springs. Having it apart three times (we’ve all been there!) simply means repeating the same mistake/oversight......
Aye, but he said the clutch feels normal and he can see the plates move when looking down the oil hole, so a bit stumped really.
As the kind sir "gladtobebackontwowheels" said: the clutch operates like normal and I'm able to see the plates move when looking down the oil hole. Thanks for the input tho! I'm out of ideas...
With the new clutch I ordered I got new plates, installed them in the same order they came in. Today I tried the old plates in the same order they came out. (Yes, the first and last plates are the correct ones) Even if I I misplaced a few plates the clutch would still work right? Might slip or something but wouldn't be completely faulty?
The steel plates may be slightly different thicknesses and not interchangeable and are the tabs on the outer plate offset to the rest? I am not familiar with your particular clutch but they are pretty similar.
And a completely wild thought....... are you sure it is not the ignition safety lock out? Trying to engage gear with a defective switch will give you a jolt and a stall.......