Chain Replacement

Have you looked in your Owners Handbook? If you've don't have a copy you can download one. Under the section 'Chain and Sprocket Wear Inspection' it includes measuring length of links to detect wear.

 

Chains and sprockets wear together - the gearbox sprocket more than the rear simply because it turns more.
The quick and easy test is to grasp a link at the pin on the rear sprocket and pull it rearwards off the sprocket. You should barely be able to move it but a worn chain/sprocket will come apart a few mm. 4 or 5 mm is a pretty tired chain.
You should also test each link for tightness or excessive wear. It is a quirk that chains do not wear evenly so you will notice when adjusting the chain that the slack will vary at different points of chain rotation.
https://www.wemoto.com/info/motorcycle_chain_and_sprocket_guide

 

The general rule to replace a drive chain are, does it fail one of the following.
Several links are seized up or close to it, you have a really bad tight spot that if you adjust chain at , the rest of the chain is So loose ! Or at the rear sprocket, you can pull or lift the chain off the sprocket several mm's !

And definitely if the chain can or will bend significantly side to side !

 

I agree. The OM shows you exactly how to check for chain/sprocket wear.

 

This is from a speed triple manual, guess it's the same

 

I am close, I think, to replacing the chain on my 955i. As I slowly learn my way around the bike, this seems like a reasonably advanced activity for a newbie - with tools, the manual, and lots of advice.

On the assumption that the chain IS in need of replacement - it does seem to be the original chain at 25k miles...and little splinters of rubber are poking out between the links in some places (I assume these are bits of O ring), is this any good as a replacement?

https://www.squaredeals-ltd.co.uk/s...-premium-strength-free-chain-tool-32816-p.asp

What should I be looking for in a new chain? Other than being "shiny and gold"...anything else? I will of course do both sprockets too!

 

Hi yes ZVMX by DID is a proper long lasting job! With good sprockets and regular lubing should last many 1000 miles / years,. Is the chains are normally endless, you may need to grind off the old chain and have a riveting tool for the fitment (or slip your local shop 20 quid for chain swap if you do the sprockets first ...

 

You have picked a top end replacement package. It may well outlast your ownership of the bike.....
Given the work involved, cheap chains are a marginal saving even when you do the work yourself. It is easy enough to split a chain by grinding the head of a pin but the biggest thing to attend to is securely flattening the head on the replacement. You can do it with a cheap tool which is semi disposable but the loan of a quality riveter makes it much easier to accomplish.
Lots on YouTube.

 

Thanks chaps....all taken on board, and glad I chose a goodn'!

 

Hello hive mind...

Using your hugely valued collective advice once again...and on teh assumption I am now going to progress this chain replacement with (as above):

https://www.squaredeals-ltd.co.uk/s...-premium-strength-free-chain-tool-32816-p.asp

what sprocket combinations should I be going for? I assume it may well be in my manual...(but i am at work, and itching to buy)!

Or...if there is a different tooth combination, why, what does it do, and what might i notice?

Thanks!!

 

What sprockets have you got ?
If you want more perky more revvy? delivery go down one at front and
up one at rear for a noticeable change.

If too perky and you want more relaxed feel better economy go up on front down on rear.

If you are happy as is then stick to same.

 

That's a very good point - what do I have now! I'll count some teeth when I get home! I think I may prefer more relaxed - thank you for explaining!

 

...and another thing...I am happy to grind the old chain off...is connecting the new one obvious and easy...or tools required?

(Or, as suggested above, change the sprockets myself, and then see if the local garage will do a chain swap?)

 

You will need a riveting tool to fit the link on the new chain, so if you swap the sprockets , don't grind the chain off unless you have the tool ...

 

https://www.gearingcommander.com/

 

@DanielB
You don't live a million mile from me mate, I'm in High Wycombe
If you have the chain and sprockets, I have the tools (Dremil for removing old pin, chain breaker/riviter, stand, tools for wheel, spindle and sprocket removal)
Have changed a few chains on my Speed Triples in the past

What bike is it on?

Happy to help one evening or weekend

 

Excellent Red Thunder, I may well take you up on that!

 

What bike is it for?