09 1600 Tbird Won't Start

Checked the battery earth?

 

Hmmmm .... it sounds like it's displaying all the classic symptoms of low/no amps from the battery for the starter but, if you 've used a different battery and the earth is good it can't be that. Solenoid sticking?

 

Not wanting to show grannie how to suck eggs but battery battery battery
Like most modern bikes the ecu on your bike has protection built in and if it thinks that something is wrong with the battery or voltage it simply won’t play ball
No good thinking that the battery is ok you have to be sure

 

I am with Dilli on this one. You need to be certain the battery is ‘up to snuff’ before assuming worse.....

Supposing it is ok, I would check, ignition on, you have power to the coil +ve terminal (multimeter to Earth) and then, starter depressed, from starter motor connection to earth.

The click is almost certainly your starter relay energising and feeding power to the starter circuit. If the starter motor is not getting any it is almost certainly the ECU registering insufficient power but if you get voltage starter motor stud to earth you know the motor is the problem. Checking coil power simply verifies the ignition circuit is healthy waiting for the starter circuit to complete its cycle.

At this stage, fuel readings are a red herring.......unless it betrays a battery issue.

 

Rod Stewart
If you can get to the solenoid try short circuiting it to see if the motor turns over. It could be the starter motor jammed. Or try a high gear and rock the bike back and forth see if it releases the motor. And do make sure you have checked those safety switches properly and they are all doing what they should do. What year is the bike and any warranty on it.
Regards
Joe.

 

A loud click when you press the starter is strongly suggestive of:

Loose battery or solenoid terminal post connections.
Defective starter motor (connections, worn brushes, etc),
Or burned-out main contacts in solenoid.

We are talking about this thing lurking under the side cover. It is just a hunky relay that uses a light current to switch to a heavy one.

 

If it energises direct from the battery have you checked the starter button output feed? There is also potential for confusion between the solenoid/relay and the starter solenoid electro magnet that throws the bendix into mesh with the starter gear and makes motor electrical contact. You are playing with the latter. Have you checked the former?

 

Rod Stewart
Failing all that you may have to check the sprag clutch sprocket see you don't have a broken tooth or jammed sprocket.
Regards
Joe.

 

What are you getting?

Starting System Symptoms:

Weak battery symptoms:
-- Slow cranking.
-- Stops cranking suddenly on compression stroke with button pressed.
-- Starts when starter button is released at end of cranking.
Repair:
-- Charge/Test/Replace battery.
Failure Modes:
-- Loss of capacity. Appears to charge, voltage good but no reserve for starting.
-- Won't hold a charge.
-- Low voltage/cell failure.
Preventative Maintenance:
-- Check fluid levels regularly
-- Maintain full charge: Regular riding, trickle charger.

Ignition Coil failure symptoms:
-- Hard starting/misfiring during cranking.
-- Rough idle that can't be tuned out with carb adjustments and carb cleaning.
-- Idle misfire clears with new sparkplugs, returns in a few hundred miles
Repair:
-- Replace: Preferably with Nology for higher reliability than stock Gill coils.
Failure Mode:
-- Shorted turns in secondary resulting in weak spark.
Preventative Maintenance:
-- None
Testing:

Pickup Coil failure symptoms:
-- No spark at all
-- Spark quits with engine hot, returns when engine cool.
-- Note: Pickup coil failure is total. There is no random misfire spark loss.
Repair:
-- Replace pickup coil
Failure mode:
-- Thermal intermittant with long (15-30 minute) period.
Preventative Maintenance:
-- None. Get a spare.
Testing:
-- Ohms checks hot and cold.

Worn starter symptoms:
-- Sometimes won't crank until the bike is rocked in gear.
-- Excessively noisy cranking with a grinding sound.
-- Click from under seat but no cranking.
Failure Mode:
-- Brush wear progressing to commutator damage.
-- Bearing failure related to brush wear.
Repair:
-- Rebuild or replace.
Preventative Maintenance:
-- Maintain battery in peak condition.
-- Follow proper starting procedures. Neutral, clutch in.
-- Crank 5-10 seconds at a time max., switch off for twice as long before cranking again.

Worn sprag clutch symptoms:
-- Very loud rattling when cranking
-- Starter spins but engine doesn't turn
Falure Mode:
-- Breakage
Repair:
-- Replace sprag clutch
Preventative Maintenance:
-- Maintain battery in peak condition.
-- Follow proper starting procedures. Neutral, clutch in.

Worn starter solenoid:
-- Click from under seat but no cranking.
-- Won't crank after rocking bike.
-- Starter continues to run after bike starts and won't stop until the battery is disconnected.
Failure mode:
-- Internal contact damage resulting in non-conduction.
-- Internal contact damage resulting in contacts welding shut.
-- Internal damage/wear prevents solenoid core movement.
Preventative Maintenance:
-- None.
Repair:
-- Replace starter solenoid.
Testing:
-- For no cranking, short across solenoid high-power terminals. Normal operation denotes failed solenoid contacts.

 

This fella
https://www.fowlersparts.co.uk/parts/view/T2506035

Just over a tenner!