Exhaust Stud Came Off, How To Fix Aluminium...

Discussion in 'Technical Help' started by R. Steady, Apr 15, 2019.

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  1. R. Steady

    R. Steady Well-Known Member

    Dec 14, 2017
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    Leiden, Netherlands
    #1 R. Steady, Apr 15, 2019
    Last edited: Apr 15, 2019
    Hello all,

    This weekend I was installing new exhaust studs on my 97 Sprint. Everything went smooth, the old came out with no hassle and the new went in nicely.
    Next step installing the downpipes... Haynes in one hand, torquewrench in the other, Stage one torque setting, ok. Stage 2 all nice till the last nut, nutter, nuttiest,,
    I heard a loud Tick, an some aluminium from the head came off.. see pictures..

    There are about 2 windings of thread left in the head.
    Does anyone has a xperience with this?

    Can the aluminium be glued or welded with the block in place?
    Is the wall of the head thick enough to drill new thread?
    or should I prepare to take the block off to lift the head...

    Any advice is welcome
    regards,
    Tjeerd

    image.jpeg

    image.jpeg

    image.jpeg
     
  2. Wishbone

    Wishbone First Class Member

    Nov 4, 2018
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    #2 Wishbone, Apr 15, 2019
    Ouch; looks like a weld job, probably need the head off for repair but looks like it could be fixable
     
  3. TEZ 217

    TEZ 217 Crème de la Crème

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    #3 TEZ 217, Apr 15, 2019
    You can buy a liquid metal it's actually more like a two part epoxy putty that you can mold in place, but not sure if it will fix this as have not personally had any experience with it, but certainly worth a go as first step.
    I'm sure one of the other more experienced builders/restorers on here will give you more advice shortly.
    But as said may need welding. Good luck.
     
  4. Vulpes

    Vulpes Confused Member

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    #4 Vulpes, Apr 15, 2019
    Hi and welcome. Can't help you, but I'm certain somebody can.. Knowlegeable lot on here.
     
  5. mpllineman

    mpllineman First Class Member

    Feb 12, 2018
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    #5 mpllineman, Apr 15, 2019
    Ouch! I have yet to have this type of problem, but would probably lean more for a weld solution for this. Maybe someone will come along with a little experience who can assist you. Good luck.
     
  6. dilligaf

    dilligaf Guest

    #6 dilligaf, Apr 15, 2019
    I would get it welded :confused: then drill and tap it :)
     
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  7. Sprinter

    Sprinter Kinigit

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    #7 Sprinter, Apr 15, 2019

    Did you get Foot Pounds mixed up with Newton Meters?
     
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  8. R. Steady

    R. Steady Well-Known Member

    Dec 14, 2017
    62
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    Leiden, Netherlands
    #8 R. Steady, Apr 15, 2019

    Negative I’m from metric country :cool:
    Tj.
     
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  9. R. Steady

    R. Steady Well-Known Member

    Dec 14, 2017
    62
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    #9 R. Steady, Apr 15, 2019
    That is what i was thinking also. I Just don’t know if this is as straightforward as with Iron.
     
  10. Eldon

    Eldon Crème de la Crème

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    #10 Eldon, Apr 15, 2019
    Last edited: Apr 15, 2019
    The break looks clean and fresh. This would lead me to think of two possible causes,
    1, was the hole clean and dry BEFORE you put the stud in? If not this would hydraulically pressurise the tapped hole blowing the casting.
    2, The stud is short or not bottomed in the hole and so overloaded the top few threads.

    Liquid metal repair would be a poor option here especially with the fluctuations in temperature.
    TIG welding is the only real option. The head will need removing and then a plan devised based on access options.
    Whereabouts are you as once stripped I could sort this for you?
     
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  11. Eldon

    Eldon Crème de la Crème

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    #11 Eldon, Apr 15, 2019
    The break looks clean and fresh. This would lead me to think of two possible causes,
    1, was the hole clean and dry BEFORE you put the stud in? If not this would hydraulically pressurise the tapped hole blowing the casting.
    2, The stud is short or not bottomed in the hole and so overloaded the top few threads.

    Liquid metal repair would be a poor option here especially with the fluctuations in temperature.
    TIG welding is the only real option. The head will need removing and then a plan devised based on access options.
    Whereabouts are you as Once stripped I could sort this for you?
     
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  12. Sprinter

    Sprinter Kinigit

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    #12 Sprinter, Apr 15, 2019
    Last edited: Apr 15, 2019
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  13. R. Steady

    R. Steady Well-Known Member

    Dec 14, 2017
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    #13 R. Steady, Apr 15, 2019
    Hi Eldon,
    1. That crossed my mind but is not likely. I cleaned it with brake cleaner, blown it out with air applied little ceramic grease to the stud.. When it came off all was clean, no oil or anything.
    2. The engine side of the stud has the same length as the one that came out (about 8mm). it was not bottommed as the old one also wasn't.
    I just met bad luck I guess..

    You are probably right and needs to be TIG welded.
    I was hoping someone would say 'drill it an tap it, the wall is 2cm thick at that point'
    Thanks for the advice and intended followup. I live in the Netherlands so not next door. I will take it to my trusted Triumph workshop nearby.
    Thanks!
    Tjeerd
     
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  14. dilligaf

    dilligaf Guest

    #14 dilligaf, Apr 15, 2019
    I can weld :rolleyes:....sort of :confused:
    But I always get somebody else to weld aluminium for me :confused:
     
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  15. Eldon

    Eldon Crème de la Crème

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    #15 Eldon, Apr 15, 2019
    I would certainly not risk drilling it deeper!

    The area needs building up first either with or without a hole.
    A new tapped hole would be easily formed afterwards.
     
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  16. Tiglet

    Tiglet Vintage Member

    Mar 28, 2016
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    #16 Tiglet, Apr 15, 2019
    I’m with Eldon.

    Strip her down, build up with tig, dress off, drill and tap.
     
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  17. R. Steady

    R. Steady Well-Known Member

    Dec 14, 2017
    62
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    #17 R. Steady, Apr 15, 2019
    I won't drill it deeper, I won't make it worse, thnx.
    I'm already sorting tools and cleaning the workbench... I'll keep you posted if interested.

    Thnx again.
    Tj.
     
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  18. R. Steady

    R. Steady Well-Known Member

    Dec 14, 2017
    62
    68
    Leiden, Netherlands
    #18 R. Steady, Apr 21, 2019
    Hello all,
    Thought I'd give you an update,

    I went to my Triumph specialist the other day for advise. He has a customer with the same problem, He advised me to put a bolt in as far as possible and add washers to level with the flange . Then build op tension with/through the other side. The other guy rides with this "solution" now for three years.
    He is not fond of welding because the head easily disforms with the heat from a torch(is that english?).
    So I did that and will see what happens. If this doesn't work out well, then I will replace the cilinderhead for a used one.
    The glue option is no option really, because of the heat.


    Tjeerd
     
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  19. Callumity

    Callumity Elite Member

    Feb 25, 2017
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    #19 Callumity, Apr 21, 2019
    Makes sense - the solution and the English!
     
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  20. dilligaf

    dilligaf Guest

    #20 dilligaf, Apr 21, 2019
    Hope it works mate :)
     
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