Hello all, This weekend I was installing new exhaust studs on my 97 Sprint. Everything went smooth, the old came out with no hassle and the new went in nicely. Next step installing the downpipes... Haynes in one hand, torquewrench in the other, Stage one torque setting, ok. Stage 2 all nice till the last nut, nutter, nuttiest,, I heard a loud Tick, an some aluminium from the head came off.. see pictures.. There are about 2 windings of thread left in the head. Does anyone has a xperience with this? Can the aluminium be glued or welded with the block in place? Is the wall of the head thick enough to drill new thread? or should I prepare to take the block off to lift the head... Any advice is welcome regards, Tjeerd
Ouch; looks like a weld job, probably need the head off for repair but looks like it could be fixable
You can buy a liquid metal it's actually more like a two part epoxy putty that you can mold in place, but not sure if it will fix this as have not personally had any experience with it, but certainly worth a go as first step. I'm sure one of the other more experienced builders/restorers on here will give you more advice shortly. But as said may need welding. Good luck.
Ouch! I have yet to have this type of problem, but would probably lean more for a weld solution for this. Maybe someone will come along with a little experience who can assist you. Good luck.
The break looks clean and fresh. This would lead me to think of two possible causes, 1, was the hole clean and dry BEFORE you put the stud in? If not this would hydraulically pressurise the tapped hole blowing the casting. 2, The stud is short or not bottomed in the hole and so overloaded the top few threads. Liquid metal repair would be a poor option here especially with the fluctuations in temperature. TIG welding is the only real option. The head will need removing and then a plan devised based on access options. Whereabouts are you as once stripped I could sort this for you?
The break looks clean and fresh. This would lead me to think of two possible causes, 1, was the hole clean and dry BEFORE you put the stud in? If not this would hydraulically pressurise the tapped hole blowing the casting. 2, The stud is short or not bottomed in the hole and so overloaded the top few threads. Liquid metal repair would be a poor option here especially with the fluctuations in temperature. TIG welding is the only real option. The head will need removing and then a plan devised based on access options. Whereabouts are you as Once stripped I could sort this for you?
http://www.allmetalweldingservices.co.uk/MobileOnsiteMotorcycleWeldingRepairs.html Just found this I dont know them. https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=aluminum+engine+casing+welding
Hi Eldon, 1. That crossed my mind but is not likely. I cleaned it with brake cleaner, blown it out with air applied little ceramic grease to the stud.. When it came off all was clean, no oil or anything. 2. The engine side of the stud has the same length as the one that came out (about 8mm). it was not bottommed as the old one also wasn't. I just met bad luck I guess.. You are probably right and needs to be TIG welded. I was hoping someone would say 'drill it an tap it, the wall is 2cm thick at that point' Thanks for the advice and intended followup. I live in the Netherlands so not next door. I will take it to my trusted Triumph workshop nearby. Thanks! Tjeerd
I would certainly not risk drilling it deeper! The area needs building up first either with or without a hole. A new tapped hole would be easily formed afterwards.
I won't drill it deeper, I won't make it worse, thnx. I'm already sorting tools and cleaning the workbench... I'll keep you posted if interested. Thnx again. Tj.
Hello all, Thought I'd give you an update, I went to my Triumph specialist the other day for advise. He has a customer with the same problem, He advised me to put a bolt in as far as possible and add washers to level with the flange . Then build op tension with/through the other side. The other guy rides with this "solution" now for three years. He is not fond of welding because the head easily disforms with the heat from a torch(is that english?). So I did that and will see what happens. If this doesn't work out well, then I will replace the cilinderhead for a used one. The glue option is no option really, because of the heat. Tjeerd