This is my new bike project a 69 Bonneville returned home from US. Plan is to rebuild to pretty much standard trim , may switch to UK spec but would like to see the two models side by side to decide as not really a triumph expert as yet ! I have restored quite a few cars from ground up and currently halfway through an old MG but with the bike in my workshop I couldn't resist to get cracking .
The engine was sized and no amount of soaking , well a week anyway made it easier . I tried heat , and various sized hammers . The bores looked toast from corrosion so had to drill and chisel the pistons out. Not the best of starts !
Tipster Think I said welcome the other day. But here it is again. Plenty of peeps on here to assist. No good asking me though as I am the fool. But good luck hope you find every thing you want to put this little beauty back on the road. They are fetching a pretty sum these days. Ride Safe Joe. Woh mate just looked at the last pic's that's an engine strip now all right. I would take it while you are in there you will do the sludge trap. And possible shells. Regards Joe.
The rest of the engine strip went a lot easier ,everything appeared to be on initial inspection in rather good nick.
Woh mate just looked at the last pic's that's an engine strip now all right. I would take it while you are in there you will do the sludge trap. And possible shells. Regards Joe.[/QUOTE] Hey thanks Joe , I removed the sludge trap and cleaned that little monkey yesterday, big ends are standard and quite tidy but stained so may opt for regrind will see if machinist think they will polish up ok .
Tipster God I am way behind here. You are way ahead of me. Fantastic mate. Wish you all the luck in the world. Its going to be a little beauty. Ride Safe Joe.
69 is a sought after year so if its a T120R then making it UK T120 speck would devalue it quite a bit as you mention you would like to keep it original. Not sure if you have come across sludge traps but that is your next job when cases are split. Great work so far Edit i must stop repeating posts lol
Am I right in thinking the only differences between R and UK spec is the bars and tank or is there more to it than that ? I am on a learning curve with all things T120at the moment quite a rapid one ! If its the tank mainly I may find a Uk one and paint that one at the same time so I can swap when felt like a change . I discovered the Lowbrow 650 rebuild vids which I followed re the sludge trap , 5/8 11 tap worked well . Hoping to get the rest of the bike in bits by the end of next week . Thinking about wheel rims at the moment as mine are shot
UK bike T120 as you say has flat bars, bigger tank with different paint design and rear light setup. Always nice if you can save the original Dunlop rims as it adds to originality or possibly look for s/hand original correct number Dunlop rims and re chrome them, same with seat pan as well save original and recover as its a one year only seat with the mounts for grab rail.
Thanks darkman , just the info I need ! Yes as you can probably see my rims are toast , holed in places so will keep an eye out for s/h set . From a quick google the other day they should be wm2 and wm3 I counted 40 spokes is that all the info I need . All tje markings on mine are rusted and cant see. I did see s/h on ebay some Jones rims which it said were off a T120 aaere these also fitted at the factory? Sounds like I need a specific seat too then as mine is reLly rusted bad and didnt realize it was a one year design .
Rear WM3 is MB10 W1007 on one side of rim along with the Dunlop trade mark on the other side and WM2 is MB11 W1230, although all seat pans from 67 to 70 are the same shape the 69 has four holes for the grab rail to mount on. You can drill the other pans and fit rivnuts of course if you can't find a 69 pan.
Those rims look lovely , was this rim type fitted to lots of other marks and models also ? When I picked my front end up I was amazed how heavy it was , I do have extra long Stantions though as was fashioned chopper style with big bars to match those crazy yanks . Probably a daft question would niceperiod alloy rims work , rolling weight etc . I ride a push bike too and built a light set , makes a real difference .
Most not sure if all unit twins had these rims fitted up to 1970. I only do original these days as i find standard bikes are easier to sell should i do so but some people do fit period flanged alloys on there bikes just as it was common to do years ago.
Glad to report the bike is now 100% stripped . Frame and bits ready for blasting hopefully Monday . I am a little undecided whether to powder coat or wet paint at present will see how bad the pitting is after blasting . I have cut the old wheel rims free and will have a look around for some second hand originals and re chrome or some nice and shiny stainless new ones if I cant find any . I have cleaned the engine cases with very fine glass bead and they are looking very nice . I have some new rods ready for rebuild time . I am just waiting to see if my cylinders will clean up at the machine shop , I am kind of thinking I am probably wasting time and that they look doubtful if taken to 60 over , perhaps plus 80 may but read somewhere that 80 over is not ideal . This is holding up the engine build somewhat as I was planning on getting the crank etc balanced but to do that I need a piston to give the machine shop so until they have verified my cylinders are good or scrap I am a bit stuck . Still there is plenty to do !
Crank looks to be in good order , cleaned the sludge trap and temp refitted so it can be balanced when I have the pistons .
The bushes in the swing arms look to be in good order , is this generally the case or do they often ware and warrant replacement ?
Paint is original and if you come to sell it one day will make it easier to sell, also small repairs are doable to painted frames and if you damage P/C you are buggered.