Daytona 900 (1996 Some Tlc)

Yes, makes sense as these things are so tiny. To be fair the state of the seals and O rings were in good nick but I changed them anyway. These are over 20 years old so these new should might outlive me!! The O rings on two of the carbs pilot jets were missing, so some else had definitely been firtling about.

 

Cheers, that's really interesting and makes sense why they have a big box for those carb design. So having a big box replicates atmospheric pressure. If the pod filters create a negative pressure it will compromise the fully opening of the main jet.
Will look at duplicating your design and feed back
Chris

 

Yes at least two of these looked blocked to me, once cleaned i checked the jet's patency with a thin strand of coper wire being careful not to damage the jet bore.
Not sure if these are standard but there were some small petrol filters inserted inside both of the petrol hoses leading into the carbs. You wouldn't have known they were there unless you removed the petrol pipe from the carb. Are these good to use in this setup or can these reduce the flow of petrol?
Cheers
Chris

 

Made me smile as I did just that, but managed to find it again

 

Hi All
Has anyone changed the sprocket sizes on the Daytona 900. I was hoping to increase the torque, not worried about loosing the top end. Looks like the rear sprocket has 43T as standard, and you can increase the rear to 48T (Triumph Hinckley Spares). Would this give you 43/48 = 10% (ish) change, and in this case 10% more torque or 10% drop in top end speed??
Also by increasing the size of the back sprocket by 5T, how many more chain links would that increase to from the standard 110. I can purchase a chain with 114 links would this length be ok as well as the teeth size being 530
Cheers
Chris

 

Hi All
Update on the pod air filters, the best mixture setting for the Mikuni carburettor after a few months changing settings.
1. The jest size increased from 125 to 135 as described above
2. The jet needle raised to the maximum No 5


3. The pilot needle open by 4 turns instead of 11/2 from the factory


These settings give you a very smooth tick over and a decent pull away torque. Once you open the throttle the bike just wants to go, very responsive. These settings won’t probably save many trees but the bike runs great. The rim of the pod filter sits away from the vacuume port so doesn’t restrict the throttle slide valve. As the pilot needle is situated on the engine side of the carburettor, this controls the amount of fuel entering the inlet and not air, hence opening increases the fuel mixture.

 

The cooling system guard, and generator casing looked a bit tired and scratched



Sanded down to the metal


Three coats of primer


Three coats of satin black


Three coats of petrol resistant lacquer


Will bolt on once the paint is dry after a week, also Matt it off a bit to blend in with the rest of the painwork


Both mounted on

 

Cheers, powder coating is probably the way to go, hopefully it will stay on. The lacquer is supposed to be petrol resistant, we’ll see how resistant it is

 

The chain also needed a good clean, i’ve always used cans before many seem to use paraffin. Makes sense as it’s kinder to rubber leaving the O rings alone. Purchased a 4 Litre container from Homebase and a spray bottle for £7.






And it worked a treat, with loads left and emergency heating

Finished with chain wax

 

Interesting, seems there is a lot going on with these carbs to get the mixture right. Also very specific to individual bikes. Will have a look at the plugs at different rev settings and see what’s being burnt. Seems to me if it starts first time, ticks over sweetly, and pulls you along when you open it up without hesitation, it must be there about.
Cheers
Chris