Why Has My Stator Connector Melted :-(

Discussion in 'Technical Help' started by London_Day_600, May 1, 2021.

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  1. London_Day_600

    Jul 7, 2019
    #1 London_Day_600, May 1, 2021
    Last edited: May 1, 2021

    I went to start my Triumph Daytona 600 up to keep it 'regular' :D
    It thanked me by spitting little 'plumes' of smelly smoke down on the left side from under the frame beam below the fuel tank. I immediately thought ELECTRICS and turned it off.

    From last time I had the tank off I know the pump connector is on the right ride and the only thing on the left are the fuel in/out connections (makes sense to keep them apart ;)).

    I have now had the chance to investigate further and found it has decided to melt its stator connector;
    [​IMG] [​IMG]
    The length of the body (externally) still looks sound with no deformation - but it won't unplug and now fused together internally. Rectifier side (yellow connectors) looks ok as far as I can see into it.

    [​IMG] [​IMG]
    Stator side has melted internally and this molten plastic must have been the cause of the little smoke plumes as it dripped out.

    [​IMG] [​IMG]
    The other connector coming out of the rectifier looks fine as do all the wires coming out of the rectifier body.

    Bike has been standing for 12 months with the only movement being side to side to distribute fluids prior to standing.
    I have been starting the bike regularly and letting it run for between 10 to 30 minutes.
    Start up routine has been the same; let idle until warmed up, couple of blips on the throttle, couple of periods holding it at 6-8000rpm.
    The battery has been kept at home regularly on a float charger over the cold months.
    Last electrical thing I did was replace a rear light bulb with blown tailight filament.

    Can I ask your advice please?

    1. Do I have an underlying issue (not just this connector going bad/loose/sparking) which would have caused this?
    2. What other tests should I do?
    3. And tips/tricks how to separate a connector in this state?
    4. Can I get a replacement connector body?

    EDIT: I just remembered one of my front indicators isn't working and so the buzzer & rear bulb works 'quickly' (double speed)

    • Like Like x 1
  2. andyc1

    andyc1 Lunarville 7, Airlock 3

    Feb 4, 2017
    N. Ireland
    The connector wouldn't melt because its faulty. I reckon if you replace it, it will happen again. You probably need a new regulator/rectifier, or its possible your stator is the cause. I can't offer much help but those 2 things are the prime suspects.
    • Agree Agree x 2
  3. Iceman

    Iceman Noble Member

    Apr 19, 2020
    I agree with Andy, it will be the regulator/rectifier, it is a well known fault, I have replaced a fair few over the years on these models (amongst others), often the unit is poorly located and and gets little in the way of cooling, especially those on the GSXRs, I would recommend a quality replacement and avoid the cheaper Chinese made ones, if you look on the website of Bikerstoolbox.co.uk they have connectors suitable for replacing your damaged ones, I have put on a link to Electrexworld that can supply what you require.
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  4. Cyborgbot

    Cyborgbot Guest

    I agree with whatever @andyc1 and @Iceman said.

    They both sounded knowledgeable and coherent.

    Far more than I am at the moment.

    My guess, and I’m no expert, is that your electrics are fritz’d…
    • Like Like x 1
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  5. London_Day_600

    Jul 7, 2019
    #5 London_Day_600, May 2, 2021
    Last edited: May 3, 2021
    Thanks for your replies.

    Doing some research seems this is a common fault on the 3 phase stator-->rectifier connector due to poor connection, contact failure (physical/dirt/corrosion) or a condition known as 'oil wicking'. This results in resistance build up in the connector and therefore high-temperature which melts the connector from inside out.

    On a Triumph Sprint:

    And other bikes;

    Honda VT1100 common issues:

    Ducati 848:

    Honda VFR:

    Before assuming expensive components have failed and replacing them I think it makes sense to test them first :)
    • Like Like x 1
  6. trudd

    trudd Member

    Oct 13, 2014
    I had the same on my 1050ST. I cut out the connector and hard wired it and it was fine.
    I have a charge indicator which is what alerted me to the issue and I would recommend fitting one.
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  7. joe mc donald


    Dec 26, 2014
    slough / burnham
    Yes new stator needed to get over this one and perhaps the reg aswel if it has got damaged.
  8. trudd

    trudd Member

    Oct 13, 2014
    Not necessarily. This was my connector, the stator and reg/rec were fine.

  9. ThruxM

    ThruxM Member

    Mar 17, 2017
    Same thing happened on my FZR1000. I reckon it was corrosion on the contacts causing excessive heat build up. They seem prone to corrode and I have heard it is wise to coat them in Vaseline. I changed the connector and all was fine (and checked the charging voltage was not over around 14v).
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  10. Captain Klang

    Captain Klang Well-Known Member

    Aug 18, 2019
    There is a really helpful discussion about this on Triumph Rat, with suggested upgrades to avoid expensive repeat problems.

    The big issue with the standard SCR shunt type regulators fitted to our bikes is heat, you probably get a very warm spot on the left under your bum after a fairly short ride. That is because the reg/rec can’t dissipate heat as it needs to, eventually leading to a failure.

    The recommended course of action is to now fit a Series type reg/rec such as the Shindegen SH775 or 847. These are much kinder to Stators. You do need to get the plugs for them and there is a bit of fiddling about to fit them as the mounting holes are not the same distance apart, but I’ve done it on my TT600 and it’s a fantastic fix. It’s also worth replacing the connectors off both ends of the Stator wiring with the Delphi 280 waterproof plugs. These stop dirt oil and water getting in and protect that end too.

    Link below

  11. Flay

    Flay Well-Known Member

    Sep 2, 2016
    For a high revving engine (your 600) the 847 is required. However as regards the mounting, on my Tiger I was able to mount the large reg/rec without drilling the frame. I used the lower hole and pivoting slightly on it I used a short strip of stainless steel and a countersunk screw for the upper mount.
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