Wheel removal

Yes remove both front calipers to remove front wheel, don't forget the pinch bolts on the right leg are a very low torque setting otherwise you will snap off the clamp when refitting.

 

torque wrench would be ideal. Make sure to hang the calipers with cable ties as you don't want to snag the brake lines ;-)

 

Rear caliper doesn't need to be removed, but the fronts do - else the tire won't clear on the way out. You'll need a 46mm socket for the rear and a 17mm hex for the front axle. Torque specs in this thread: http://thetriumphforum.co.uk/threads/please-confirm-torque-settings.6829/

edit: just realized your bike is a '16, topbanana. Note that mine is a '14. Not sure all the specs will be the same (fitting sizes or torque). I suspect they're similar, though.

 

Ohlins very kindly put the setting on the bottom of the fork (19nm) I am sure you will have to buy two torque wrenches to do the job and remember to always unwind it to the lowest setting after using it.

 

I thought it is 22mm hex bit socket for the front axle!!! sorry if I got it wrong

 

Perhaps it varies by year. I know I had to order a 17mm for my 2014 (non-R model)

 

To be perfectly honest, a torque wrench or two is a good thing to have. Once you get it (them), you'll find yourself using it more often than you think.

That being said, the only real benefit I've noticed in my years using them on arguably "less-than-critical" items is that I've not warped a brake rotor on a car in ages (presumably the problems arose from the lugs being torqued unevenly - though it could be pure coincidence and better metallurgy these days). Prior to using torque wrenches I never had a fastener back itself out. If anything, I snapped the occasional bolt from over-torquing it. That still happens from time to time because it's not always practical to get a torque wrench into tight spaces and I still don't know my own strength sometimes (though most fasteners are broken when trying to REMOVE them).

The truth is you have fail safes built in on both front and rear axles in the form of pinch bolts (front) and a retaining ring/"castle nut" sort of set up in the rear. You can get by without a torque wrench and not worry that the wheels will come off on their own. Just pay attention to how hard you have to turn the fasteners to loosen them, and turn them approximately as hard when you put things back together.

Then go buy a torque wrench or two as budget and time allow. Again, you'll find yourself using them more often than you currently foresee.

 

I have 3 torque wrenches. A large cheap one that goes upto 220nm which is really only used for things like wheel axles. Another slightly dearer one which does 20nm - 88nm for the majority of things and an expensive one that does 3nm-24nm, this one been more accurate for things like cam cap bolts. The higher the NM the less accurate it has to be for example 10nm over the specified axle torque isn't going to break it or cause an issue, 10nm over on cam cap bolts would lead to great expense.

 

I use 2 norbar torque wrenches. 8-60Nm & 40-200Nm. As you guys have said...it's an investment. Anything below 8Nm, I tend to go by feel.

 

Ditto
A small accurate one for delicate stuff
A GP one for the hefty stuff which isn't so critical.
They have a ratchet so use them all the time. Evenness is more important than the torque setting on anything with more than 1 bolt.
(OR If you have a classic bike there are only 3 settings. Tight, Loose and Vibed off and gone).

 

Managed to take the loose wheels n fitted my new M7RRs

Now fit all the carbon bits .

Exciting night tonight

 

Not for us unless you post some pix

 

Hang in there buddy. I ordered the triumph indicators n they should be with me this coming week. So I will sort everything out and get the pictures up and running.

So far I have done the following:

New rubbers M7RRs
Carbon fender side panels
Carbon radiator cover
Carbon hugger and chain guard
Pzzo short black levers with red adjuters
R&G clutch n crank case engine sliders
R&G rear wheel spindle sliders
S Moto Rad & Oil cooler covers
3 Pistons bar end mirrors
Oxford sports premium heated grips
GI Pro Healtech Gear Indicator
Light tint headlight covers - the tint is very light...it doesn't reduce the lighting at all.

To do....
Triumph LED indicators front & Rear
Rear brake pads
Trying to source a tinted fly screen

The following are in the list but no sure if I want to go ahead as it might look too OTT. I like to preserve some of the originality of Speed Triple ....
Carbon swingarm cover
Carbon headlight bowl
OEM phantom black belly pan

 

No pics of the new rubber then

 

Here we go Mr Darkman. ... the new metzeler m7rr 190/55 ;-)

 

I work calibrating torque wrenches for aircraft.
I recommend Norbar