Hi, odd problem with my 2004 America. Yesterday, pulled up, went into neutral, put her on side stand and after ten seconds or so, bike cut out. Trying to restart, odd problem seemingly related to side stand switch, or maybe clutch switch? Or is there a switch/sensor in gearbox? If I have side stand down, in neutral, it will no longer start as it normally would. I have to pull side stand up for engine to start. Then when I put her in gear engine stops. I have propped the bike against a wall and looked when operating side stand and plunger of switch is moving in and out properly so if the problem is this switch, it is electrical rather than mechanical. I hate electrics! Any ides on where to start looking for fault? Can I temporarily bypass the switch in the harness plug to test and if so which terminals need shorting? Would a faulty side stand switch produce this kind of issue? I assume a faulty switch would cut engine when engaging gear but why would it stop starting when stand down? Could it be some other part of this safety system?
yeh i had a similar problem with my suzuki vstrom, you could start by cleaning all around the switch and check any conections on the side stand switch there in a position to collect loads of shit from road, from what you say i put odds on the problem being the switch you could just change it for the love of it at least if the problem still exists its not the switch
I thought I would update on this. I bought a bypass block that fits in the plug on the loom - £50 cheaper than buying a new switch. When I took the old switch off, a lot of water poured out so seemed to be the problem. So, after fitting the block, everything worked perfectly - for 4 days Then bimbling across work car park to leave for home, bike cut out. Same symptoms upon restarting, it will start in neutral then cut out when putting it into gear. Cue being recovered by the RAC for second time in a week. So, I have tested the bypass block with a multimeter and it is fine - continuity between pins 1 and 3 emulating sidestand being up. I also made a new one up myself by cutting the plug off the old switch and soldering the brown and black wires together. Still no joy. I have tested the clutch switch and it is working properly. The neutral light switch is working perfectly as the light comes on in neutral and goes off when in gear. I don't really know where to go next. I would try to get a motorcycle garage to look at it but locally they are all closed during this lock down. Stumped.
Hi there. Not sure on this but has it also got a clutch switch also? Could be worth checking also as they MAY (unlikely though ) work in tandem? Probably not it (going on your description of the symptoms) but who can tell! Good luck!
Something didn’t ‘read right’ from the beginning. Sidestand down the plunger is IN cutting ignition. Ditto the neutral switch in the gearbox which operates in a detent in the change shaft. No neutral no starty. The clutch switch overcomes the lockout and the diode pack in the loom acts as an electrical valve so current flows one way and the lockout switches work independently....... BUT I am now left doubting whether they SHOULD start sidestand down even if in neutral. I must check! The sidestand switch certainly benefits from an annual blast with WD40 before repacking the plunger under the rubber bellows with dielectric (silicone) grease to keep water out and contacts healthy.
Yeah, these do have a clutch switch but it is only there to stop you starting when in gear without clutch in - if you stall at traffic lights for example. These older carburetor 790cc's would always start on the side stand without having to pull the clutch in so you could warm them up and put the manual choke in before riding off. Anyway, I got out my multimeter and the clutch switch is fine. I'm thinking either a wiring problem or faulty diodes. Sadly the Haynes manual doesn't seem to have any picture or drawing showing what these "diodes" look like or where they are located. Presumably there should be a way to bypass the entire system, sidestand switch, clutch switch, diodes the lot; but my knowledge of electrics on vehicles is nowhere near that advanced, even looking at a wiring diagram.
You set me thinking about how I start my carbed T100 having been let down early in my ownership by a sticking sidestand switch. You are of course right about starting in neutral sidestand down - it’s just not my habit. The cold logic therefore is as you have deduced: a wire broken, an intermittent connection or the diodes. The diode pack is taped into the loom under the tank and effectively consists of something like a single fuse holder. They are not listed as replacement parts that I have ever found and a breaker might be your best bet this side of a competent auto electrician and a generic part. BUT I think connectivity somewhere is more likely. Diodes don’t go intermittent as far as I am aware. I would do continuity tests and then impedance. I would also check all your multiplugs from igniter to headlamp shell.
It's not that bad really. Diodes let the current flow in one direction only. So, if you measure (with battery off (red/live) and on a side stand lead) continuity having black to earth, and get a result, then reverse the leads (from your meter) so red is now to earth and you then get nothing, the diode works (on that cable) A wiring diagram REALLY would help i'm afraid. I'm not explaining this very well i'm afraid so sorry.
Thanks guys, certainly gives me a starting point. I haven't tried this before Ducattotriumph but will attempt to upload a .pdf of the wiring diagram. I hope it means more to you than it does to me!
This does have the classic hallmark of a sidestand switch fault. I've had the same problem on several TBAs....cured temporarily by cleaning the switch then it fails again couple of days later. It's worth simply replacing the switch I think
If you feel that the side stand switch is us just cut the wires and join them together making a direct link and try that. Not a permanent cure but a great way of testing a faulty switch or like said clean it perfectly clean and lube to see if it cures anything. Regards Joe.
I hope I have had a "Eureka" moment. When I replaced the switch with the bypass block, I had a problem with access to unplug it because the tab on the connector block to release the 2 halves was broken. So I had to take the tank off and use a small jewelers screwdriver to push up the catch in order to unplug it. When removing the tank, you have to take off the panel on it that contains neutral light, oil light etc. and there is a connector with quite a few wires in it to undo in order to remove the panel. As the bypass seemed to work initially but then failed again, by a process of elimination, I'm thinking that there may be a bad or loose connection in this wiring as this is all I touched other than the plug connecting the side stand switch. Maybe the problem was initially fixed simply because I unplugged then re-plugged the connector and this, rather than the bypass, was the reason why it started working again. Subsequently through vibration of the bike it may have failed again. So, I have ordered some contact cleaner spray and when it arrives I will have a good look at the wiring in this area. Fingers crossed.
Bugger. Checked wiring, gave connector a good clean. No joy, it is something else. Looks like I am gonna have to wait for end of lock down and get it picked up by motorcycle mechanic.
