Has anyone imported a PCV trim table into Tuneecu and if so what did it run like ? I've had Power commanders on other bikes and was happy with the standard map trimming they provided As my S3 is standard, until I get round to saving for some exhausts, I was thinking of importing the PCV trim/map for a standard bike but I've read in a few places that the trims don't copy over too well Sadly that is all the info I can find...Tried contacting Tuneecu but had no response yet... Any opinions ?
I swapped the exhaust on my triumph bonneville america downloaded a map from tuneecu and loaded it in no problem. I've heard of people having issues with some cables though. Andy
Hi Jody I have done it, Hi Andy, that's my map you used from tuneecu ! The main difficulty with importing the power commander maps into your Triumph/tuneecu map and this is where the inaccuracies come in, there are two or three power Commander maps/tables but tuneecu only copies across One. The top one, so I had to fudge/adjust my mapping as second cylinder wasn't quite right . but it ran just as well if not better than with power commander attached, as the power commander tables have fewer boxes for adjustment than the tables in tuneecu, power commander has like 30 boxes and tuneecu has 100 odd . you could get around this by copying mapping of each cylinder into multiple maps depending on number of cylinders your bike has and print / copy the corrected cylinder maps into one full true copy... The fueling running from your ecu only without a power commander piggy backed onto it you would reason it would be more responsive and accurate ? And better for your bike engine ?? I have run my power commander adjusted map in my ecu for 90,000klm bikes got 102,000klms on the clock now, added 15% more fuel to the map when I rebuilt motor to 904cc high compression big bore kit from wiseco, runs fine on that. Bit ritch in lower throttle settings but will do the job, as I tow my trailer's on regular trip's camping and visiting family .
Capt, how do find the fueling at low revs? Although with the current map loaded things are far better than standard, I still find closed throttle to partial throttle a bit harsh or snatched. Or is this as good as it gets? Andy
Fueling at low throttle/revs, I found that resetting the tps was the way to go, As I believe most of the snatch you might feel is the ECU not knowing where to start from ! Unlike carburetors which fuel by vacuum , efi bikes run from a start position, you might have to adjust your idle screw up or down a little bit. Reset TPS and see how/if it changes. Improved or worse ! It took me 2 or 3 tries... Cheers
So here we go time for dum questions. Did you move the TPS position physically, did you reset it using tuneecu, did you use the voltage feedback in tuneecu at idle for a reference? Cheers, Andy
From my experience with Tuneecu on my Ducati before my S3 you don't move the TPS Even the slightest movement alters the output wildly, all you are doing by resetting through Tuneecu (If your TPS has worn/altered is telling the ECU that the current voltage is the new starting point
Hi Jody, yes you are right, using tuneecu to reset TPS is only an instruction to start a new from current point! Where I had to adjust. Was the throttle idle adjustment on the left hand throttle body/fake carburetor, as you need the butterfly inside the inlet tract open just enough to match the fueling start point..! If you are getting too much air then engine is weak at initial throttle start point, to little air rich and flooding symptoms (smells fuelly at idle) both cause hesitant running when throttle is blipped but too rich distinguishes itself by running up strongly after initial throttle movement. Too lean it stutters then bursts alive, get the adjustment just right and the engine will pull away from standing start with almost no throttle movement when clutch is released slow and smooth. Then open throttle just above idle clutch now fully engaged and bike will accelerate at whatever rate you choose. smoothly... As I tow trailers two up I consider it fairly important to get off the mark smoothly without trying to do race starts every time (excessive clutch wear would ensue) with over 100,000klms on the bike I would like to try for a few more before clutch rebuild.
OK thanks.....BUT, here I go again you say (if I understand correctly) I need to match the air to the fuel by adjusting the idle screw. If I adjust this then surely I also adjust the idle speed? If correct a/fiberglass ratio gives 500 rpm idle or 5000rpm idle how do I reset idle to 1200/1400 idle that I have now? I hope this makes sense to you. Thanks for your help so far. Andy
You are adjust the idle screw by 1/10 of a turn or so the reset TPS, trial and error to get map fuel starting point aligned with throttle butterfly, as fuel injection is independent of air flow. Carburetors respond to vacuum and air flow automatically, jet sizes set by carburetor manufacturer, and body drillings control idle mixtures. As fuel injection is electronic. You have to align the star point manually. Then the fuel injection adjust fuel to position sensor changes in throttle butterfly.... But will only be accurate if start point is set!!!! There can be quite a bit of fiddling in this process. Especially if you turn up or down the idle adjustment by too big an amount, slowly. slowly. Fractions of a turn is usually enough, I got lucky took only 3 attempts to get it right?? Well I was happy and seems to run OK. Once you get it where you are satisfied it's right and reset the TPS, you can adjust idle up or down to correct rpms ? Do you now follow ? Get start point right. It's a map position to throttle position. Align both so both start where they need to be. Because with electronic fuel injection you could set start of map at 1/2 way point to full throttle,this can't happen with carburetors, no where near enough fuel for engine to pull a load , would probably stall or burn hole's in pistons if it would run on the road. Get the begining right and everything else follows in the correct order.
OK sorry to be a pain....is there anything to indicate whether to adjust the idle screw out or in? Reset tps with tuneecu and once happy adjust idle to an acceptable speed but don't reset the TPS. If I understand correctly. Andy
Yes you have it now, do TPS reset, if it idles fine try a couple of very gentle almost no throttle take off's (when engine is warm) using clutch to do most of the work(lots of slipping) gentle does it, once fully engaged , gently accelerate if it dies usually means to lean so back it off a touch when reset TPS, if it boggs down but keeps running. Means probably little rich. ADUST up/open throttle a bit and reset TPS. Hope that helps. Cheers. Once happy do final TPS. And from there adjust idle as required, winter and summer could affect idle a tiny bit depending on when and what temperature you originally adjusted / set it, I find on really hot days the idle will differ as much as 100 rpm from what it was set to.
Oh and Andy_s there's no such thing as being a pain or a stupid question when you are trying to understand someone else's explanation! It was always up to the the speaker/teacher/experienced to relay the information in a way that All understand, I learned this in my 20yr army career, people come from all sorts of backgrounds, some understand technical things intuitively some need better or more instructions. I was a Motor Mechanical Engineer in Australian Army RAEME, Australian equivalent to your REME. I'm still learning. Fuel injection was just on Diesel engines when I graduated as a mechanic in the late 70's.
I'll give it a go thanks. Wife made me take her out today onbike. One thing I noticed was when setting off or on acceleration from closed throttle from a junction say, there seemed to be pop as if the engine had just restarted when reopening the throttle then bike jumped slightly and off we went. Does that make sense? If you imagine being bump started once the engine fires it jumps forward as it starts. Anyway I'll have to find some tinkering time and have a play Cheers, Andy
