When i took out a brand new Thruxton R with 57 miles on the clock out for a test run I was so impressed I eventually bought one. However just before returning the bike the front tyre completely deflated. no warning, there i was stationary waiting to pull away at lights when the tyre went flat. nursed it back to the very unhappy dealer. found out later the valve stem had sheared away from the tube. I had a front go flat on me decades ago on a 400/4 and it was scary even though i was slowing for a roundabout. Has anyone converted standard tubed wheels on their Thruxton R to take tubed wheels and if so how and at what cost ?
Some of the classic racer boys I know, basically remove the spoke nuts and silicone seal them enabling the use of tubeless.
One of the first mods I did to my Thruxton S was tubeless conversion using the well documented 3M tape method. The method is covered in detail on the Triumph Rat forum is you do a it of searching. I have about 4,000 km on my wheels now with no problems and the peace of mind that tubeless brings - plus I carry a repair kit under the seat which I could not do with tubed tyres.
Good. I had a problem last year with a slow leak from the bead on the rear wheel. Took the tyre off and it seemed to be caused by the very rough finish of the rim. Gave the rim a a really good sand and polish and its been fine. Front tyre has been perfect - now have about 5000km on it.
Do you mean like a tyre pando type stuff? No. it is unnecessary and makes a mess. It also centrifuges away from the wheel, as its designed to seal the inner surface of the tyre. I used Loctite on the spokes and nipples before applying the tape and then found out that it does not work on aluminium! I only used it as a bit of 'belt and braces' insurance. The wheel does need to be well cleaned. I used acetone to clean, then isopropyl to finish as it is recommended by 3M. The tape is easy to apply but like everything it can get a bit tricky first time. The end of the tape either needs to be butted with a patch over the join, or overlapped in the direction of rotation.
Got the local motorcycle shop to take the tyres off as breaking the bead can be a problem. Re-fitted myself but the rear was a bit of a struggle due to the very shallow well, the width of the tyre and the rigidity of modern tyre carcasses.
I’m guessing you have to get a fair old blast of air into them to seal them on the rims...what stops air leaking out between the tyre bead and rim, is it just the tightness of the fit and ensuring no muck or grease on there.
I’m guessing you have to get a fair old blast of air into them to seal them on the rims...what stops air leaking out between the tyre bead and rim, is it just the tightness of the fit and ensuring no muck or grease on there.
Yes. Give them a good wipe, use a suitable lube, leave the valve out and give them a blast with compressed air and they should pop on. The tyres are stiff enough that they tend to sit against the bead when first fitted.
