Triumph Twin Power Stage 1 Torque Induction Kit

Finally decided on this modification for the Bonnie. Have been thinking about it for some time and now I've finished with the new indicators and headlamp brackets I thought it was time to tweek the old motor.


This kit includes a DNA filter, the bell mouth to replace the snorkel, the O2 sensor removal kit, the OBD-2 cable and of course the downloadable tune from TTP.
You need to have removed the AI system and you also need to remove the air box baffle to get the full benefit - this one is designed to run with the TORS exhaust I have fitted.
Removing the O2 sensors is straightforward and TTP give you a good set of instructions for all stages on paper and online. Here is a sensor I removed earlier!

Fitting the blanking plugs is a bit fiddly because of the restricted room off the back of the exhaust. Luckily I have a very small socket set - the ratchet is about the length of my little finger. They give you a torque figure but how you are meant to get a torque wrench in there is anybody's guess!

Removing the air box baffle is the trickiest part of this operation.
There are three ways:
1) Remove the entire box from the bike, unscrew and separate the RH side panel and simply slide the baffle out. Advantages: Easiest way to get the baffle out and access to all screws. Disadvantage: Ball ache - you need to detach everything that is attached to the box, remove rear mudguard and rear wheel so lots of faffing about with chain adjustment etc.
2) It is possible to remove RH side panel after detaching fuse box, air temp sensor and rear brake cylinder but three of the screws are very hard to get to because of the bikes frame. Can be done with patience and small pair of mole grips or maybe a right angled screwdriver. In both cases the panel must be resealed with some form of silicone before screwing back together.
3) The hooligan method (as used by me). Basically you heat up the baffle inside the air box with a heat gun and pull it out as it deforms. You MUST remove the air temp sensor first or you will roast it! Here it is - found under the fuse box on the RH side.



It's not pretty and once heated up it may take a couple of goes to wrench out the baffle with mole grips but it is softer plastic than the box itself and so can be done in about 10 minutes with everything else still in place on the bike (bar the sensor). Loads about this on Triumph RAT forum.
Here the baffle has popped out after the first application of heat.
Just a word of warning here on removing the original filter for those who haven't done so yet - protect your frame with a cloth, this thing is like a cheese grater!

Not proud of this mess and I am usually reluctant to do things like this but the air box can take it! It also saved me about and hour and a half's work according to the TTP instructions.

Here is the TuneECU screen on the laptop. Ensure full charge or keep plugged in, you don't want to interrupt the process by trying to find your charging cable half way through! Similarly, bike battery must be fully charged and you need to remove the fuse to keep the headlamp and tail off so it doesn't drain the battery.

This is the actual tune downloading - full instructions come up on the screen so don't worry. The ignition is on at this stage but the engine is not running. (hence the need for a full battery charge).
Once loaded - start the engine and push the choke knob back in as soon as practical. Wait for the TPS light to go green (the grey circle in this picture to the left of the tachometer. Mine took 12 minutes but it can take longer.

You get the option to increase the rev limit on the bike and the tune automatically deactivates AI and O2 sensors by default so no error codes show later.


Good to see my throttle bodies are perfectly in synch!

The TTP package comes with the link to download the Tune ECU program and this is straightforward to install and save to your hard drive. You must also download the drivers for the cable and this didn't work for me first time. However, Mike at TTP sent me a link to full instructions (10 page booklet) for Windows 10 and I had no issues after that. If there appears to be no connection when you wire up the bike to the laptop, click on the options tab in the top LH corner and select "auto connect" and that will do it.

The results? Well worth it. The bike is noticeably quicker to accelerate through the rev range and seems much more willing to rev higher than before. A quick run yesterday showed that 80 mph from 50 mph came up quicker than before and the bike revved happily past 7500 rpm, which it seemed a bit reluctant to do before. There is a slight increase in induction roar but that is not unpleasant by any means. Very pleased with this and definitely worth doing.

 

I'll see what I can do!

 

This is the link to the Windows 10 Driver installation guide.
www.triumphtwinpower.com/pdf/FTDI%20Drivers%20Installation%20Guide%20for%20Windows%2010.pdf

 

It makes it the bike it should have been in the first place!