I should be changing the oil in the forks soon, and I have a question. Cos I'm not changing the seal, only the oil, do I need to undo the lock nut, - this needs a special tool - ( to hold tube,10. down, to access the lock nut,{ which looks like it could be knocked up}) or can I just tip the oil out at that stage? 4.00 minutes in.
Once I have unscrewed the top cap, No. 3, would it just pour out then? Havnt I seen people suck it out at that point with a syringe and tube? Still in place on the bike?
Will do. I think it will be grey and burst, handles well, so I do expect the same amount in both legs.
When I did my 2010 Speed Triple oil, I took out the spring and filled it to the correct level before putting the springs in. I got the tools off eBay and Squaredeals Once you have done it it is quite easy, in fact I wasn't happy with the weight of oil I used so quickly took them both apart, drained the oil and got them both back on the bike inside an hour I am using an Abba Skylight which makes thinks much easier. I would suggest get the rights tools, it makes things so much easier By the way, when I refilled the oil in the legs I used a mechanical ruler to the top of the inside leg to get the right air gap
@Sprinter I can't remember where you are but if you are close or can get to High Wycombe - J4 M40 I will be very happy to help you one weekend Use my stand and stuff - can get it done quick
Sorry I had to hit the funny He’s in ABERDEEN C’mon @Sprinter get ya arse in gear and get down there mate it would be very rude of you to not take up this offer
Thanks for the offers of help and advice. I'm working today on enhanced rate so I think I will order the tool tonight
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Laser-To...156631&hash=item2a719dbaa0:g:VooAAOSwPCVX6nyC To be honest it doesnt look complicated, and I may have been able to get by without it. Once youve stripped the fork you dont want to start buying 6mm bar and fabricating stuff, or finding out that for the money and the petrol used, getting the alternative sorted, you may have been as well just having the tool there.
The cap (part 3) is easy as long as you have the right sized spanner. Loosen the top pinch bolts and loosen them in situ Then with the legs off the bike you can undo them by hand, there shouldn't be any spring pressure that would cause the cap to fly off ( completely unwind the preload before starting) You would need the tool pushes the tube down as at the 4min mark you highlighted in the video, I used some thin rope and push this down with my foot so I can slide in the tool to hold the spring compressed.
Here ya go duck, an assistant is needed to compress the spring using the tool and to either undo the lock nut or place the clip to hold the tool and spring down.
Word to the wise, the lock nut (10mm size IIRC) needs to be an exact distance from the top of the thread This distance determines the rebound/compression valve adjustment, get it wrong and your adjustment ability will be effected. Too short and the adjuster will be fully engaged, too long and you won't be able to wind in the adjustment all the way On my 2010 Speed Triple the distance needs to be 10.5mm I'm referring to the nut that the slide in tool sits under and when loosened enables the top cap part to be unscrewed
Have you had a look at the video posted above, at 4 minutes in they are shown using a similar, but more expensive tool to get at the lock nut.
Brilliant thread, just realised it was 4 years ago and about 25000Km since I changed my oil in the forks. At the time I didn't have the correct tools and it was a pain in the sphincter. Will prob use the "dump and run" way (post below) this time.
