My hero came through for me on this one. Just need to clean it up and a repaint then can crack on. He managed to weld the inside of it too so won't need to seal the inside with belzona or anything to stop oil seepage. Just need to helicoil the hole on we are good to go!
Was able to get going with the daytona over the weekend. Got the engine all rebuilt on the bench then put it back in the frame, remembering to put the spacer in this time!!! Getting exciting again, hopefully in the next few days will have it running and riding the way it should be!
Got the bike together last night and got it running, gearbox is all good this time and the weld repair is holding oil fine so all good there! Only issue I have now is that its only running on 2 cylinders, I'm confident it is getting fuel as when I stripped the airbox off after running there was a mist below the butterfly in all the throttle bodies. I'm pretty sure it's getting spark as I checked when I built the last time but will pull them to check again tonight. Looks like that was the likely cause of the bike siezing in the first place, if the fuel in cylinder wasn't getting burnt off then it would eventually thin out the oil over time and cause the bearing to shit itself, that coupled with a choked strainer. So I'm needing to get it running on 3 obviously. Any pointers or ideas to look at would be much appreciated. I now think it has bever ran on 3 cylinders and tbh it's the first big bike/triple I've had and I just thought it sounded like that and if it's this quick on 2 cylinders then on 3 it'll be lightning
Have you identified which cylinder is dead? (check which exhaust manifold pipe stays cold after running the engine). I would then start by checking that cylinder's coil connector and check that the coil is pushed fully home. You could also swap coils around to see if the problem moves to another cylinder, in which case it could be a dodgy coil. If no further forward then start looking at the injectors and swap them around. I assume all 3 sparkplugs are good?
Is the MIL (malfunction indicator light) on after starting? If you have access to diagnostic software you could check for fault codes. I would also check that the 3 rubber hoses are all properly connected to each throttle body.
So I tried swapping coils over to see if the problem would move and the bike didn't start at all so I put the coils back in there starting cylinders and it wouldn't start again. Checked the spark plugs and they all have good spark but they only spark like 3 or 4 times but the bike continues to turn over then stops sparking and will only start sparking again if you let go of the ignition button and push it again then will spark like 3 times and go off again. Also sounds like there's a relay clicking when it stops sparking too? I have noid lights to check the injectors but I need to get the bike running again first
Got the bike running again tonight, turns out there was a fault with the kickstand switch and that's what was cutting the spark. Didn't have much time to look into the 1 cylinder not running but I had a noid light plugged into the injector plug when it was running and the light was flashing so the injector is getting a signal and I know the injector opens as i tried it before, fairly confident the cylinder is getting fuel, so will swap plugs and coils about tomorow now I know that it runs again! So close!
Swapped plugs first and still runs on the same 2 cylinders then swapped the coils and it's still running on the same 2 cylinders, so either there's an issue with the wires giving the signal to cylinder 1 or there's another issue elsewhere Will look at the wires feeding the coil first, then investigate other things to see if I can figure out the problem
