Hi all, I am in the final stages of putting back on the road my inherited 1979 T140E. I have repaired/replaced a lot of parts, and have had the bike running (BADLY) a few times, but it would not rev, and eventually it dies. I have replaced the battery, coils, leads and plugs (amongst other things) and removed the head (nightmare that turned out to be) and checked/re seated the valves. The bike is still hard to start, runs for a few seconds and stops. Both carbs have been cleaned, and new stay up floats and viton tipped valve put in. It has the original RITA ignition, and has 8,000 miles on the clock. The float chambers have fuel in them, and the cold start seems to operate at the same time for both carbs. Any ideas/tips one what to look at next? Thanks Paul
I would presume you have checked that the valve timing and ignition timing are correct and a good fat spark at each plug? do not run RITA ignition without the plug earthed as it will kill the amp, Other than this if your certain all else is OK are you tickling the carbs before start all older triumphs like to be very rich to start, have you checked the plugs to see if there is fuel getting through? As said double check the carbs, have you got the air screws about 1- 1.5 turns out, in is richer.
Hi, I had a good spark, when checked, and the float chambers have fuel in them. I have tried various settings for the air screws, and sometimes had different settings on each carb, just to see if it would stay running on one cylinder,with no change. The cold start seems to operate both sides , but flicks closed a little too easily. I am not 100% clued up on timing, and I am currently looking for a local mechanic with a bit of knowledge of the T140, to see what else I could be missing. There doesnt seem to be many around this area, but I wont give up. I am sure I read somewhere the kill switch and Lucas ignition switch could be a cause as well. Thanks for the reply Paul
So it will start with difficulty, but wont keep running even with a bit of choke, what about if you take off the choke and use the throttle does it still just die? does it spit back through the carb or exhaust?
Hi, yes it dies when the cold start is shut. When it runs for any period of time(which isnt often) , it was lumpy, but it could be my carb settings. I get the feeling, that when it does finally run, its going to be something thats so obvious!. Thanks
Had 2 new pilot jets delivered this week, fitted them , made sure carb cleaner jetted through them, put the carbs back together and refitted them to the bike. Still will not stay running. Do I replace the new stayup floats, or start looking at the Lucas Rita side of things ?. Also, any pointers on how many turns in for the tick over screws. Thanks Paul
Air screws should be 1.5 turns out as a starting point, have you checked the float hight as this if too high will cause flooding IE very rich and lumpy, in theory most twins and triples will always need the carbs tickled initially so like being rich to start, but if too rich when hot or not enough air IE choke will tend to die. As for the RITA ignition it needs a good charged battery to start reliably, also check that all the earth point are clean and making good contact, the other thing worth checking is the cut out switch/button, i have know then to make contact with vibration which will cause all kinds of odd effects.
Thanks, will check the earths, and someone else has mentioned the cut out switch, I will see what condtion that is in as well. Cheers Paul
Can of worms mate best to set the carbs to stock settings ,needle position float heights air screws etc then refit them and make sure they are both opening/shut the same amount once done you can eliminate them and move on , you've done the basics first I assume plugs, air filter, battery (fully charged) valve clearances/timing etc etc ?
Thanks for the reply, its got new (correct type) plugs, filters scrubbed clean, heads been off and valve clearances checked when refitting. Not got a scooby on checking timing, although nothing has been touched since the bike was running properly in 1994. New battery, but it will go on charge again tomorrow night, just to be safe. I will clean all the earths over the next few days. There is a company selling new, modern replacements (internals) for the Lucas amp, and this may be a future step. I found checking the stay up float heights a little vague,as you can get slightly different heights if you dont catch the float valve correctly...or it could be me being a plum..! Thanks again Paul
Good luck Paul don't give up synch the carbs check your wiring have a look in a manual for timing setting if you haven't got one look online for a download
Paul J cook When I was working on my Silver Jubilee. I found that the timing had to be done on the right cylinder. And valve timing was a nightmare as it only lines up every 90 odd revolutions or so. I ended up with advice of the peeps on here to start again by taking the head of and setting it from start. The Haynes manual was useless and no help a tall I had to purchase a oem manual and using that which was a whole lot better. But I do feel your issues might still be carbs. Try putting a squirt of fuel down each plug hole and see the starting. I would also like to find out about the company selling the Lucas parts. I am working on my TSX and it seem to run the battery flat so may look at new Lucas bits as I would like to keep it oem. When I set my carbs I used 6mm drill bits under the slides and had them lifting exactly the same both sides. Firstly I run each cylinder on its own and set to 1000 revs then readjusted the screws to 1000 revs. then took the airbox to filter rubbers of and set the slides to lift exactly the same. I also found on mine I took the choke slides out and it ran better. Ride Safe Joe
Thanks for the info, the bike is tucked away until the weather improves, and I will try the things you have mentioned. The company I have found supplies modern components that fit inside the Rita case. Not too expensive either. Thanks Paul
It can't be something as simple as a breather pipe somewhere? Fuel being used and no vent so causing a vacuum? Blocked fuel filter? Blocked vent in the tank? I am not familiar with the bike so just guessing
Mk2 concentrics req a lot of choke until engine is warm, pilot should be 15, choke jet 35, needle jet .106, slide3 1/2 and needle 2A1 for optimal non emission spec so worth checking you have this set up, also any amount of wear on bottom of slides is a bad thing for starting.
Hi, The fuel cap, fuel Taps and Amal breather tubes were all replaced with new ones. The Filters for each carb have been cleaned and are in good condition. I cant wait to get back at it, as I am learning about possible causes all the time. Thanks for the tips.
All the above are original (but cleaned and checked) except the pilots which are new. I may go down the route of replacing the above, as the next step. Thanks Paul
