I was out on a ride today on my ST when some old doddering tw*t pulled out in front of me, I managed swerve and stop, but it got me thinking, could I fit different front brake pads to improve the feeling without resorting to calliper/ disc changes, is there any particular brand of pads that are an improvement on the standard pads that are currently fitted? PS Happy new year to all Triumph riders everywhere.
Hi Tony. Genuine Triumph floating front discs are on eBay for just £70 at present. I just bought one, almost as cheap as pads....
I had a similar post some time ago with zero responses. I was asking if anyone knew what type of brake pads are stock on the ST. Organic? sintered metal? etc. No one seams to know. Even the local Triumph dealership did not know which was strange. I have been considering new sintered metal, but the OEM brakes may already be sintered type. I don't want to spend the money unless I know for sure an upgrade will really be better. I find the OEM brakes 'not that bad'. But a bit of improvement would be welcome.
The trouble with changing from OEM pads is the better the braking the more wear to discs and greater heat needs to be dissipated, For the road You should probably only go OEM or equivalent if you’re going to really abuse the brakes go for something different
This ole fella had a walking stick in the passenger footwell of his car and his hearing was "challenged",he must have had restricted neck movement as he never turned his head as he entered the main road from the side road . I dread to think what his reflexes were like, don't think he was a lunatic though, if he was, he'd probably forgotten it.!
The trouble with so called uprated brake pads is they are usually better when hot so fine when used on a lot of twisties and rubbish when cold, stock pads are usually have the most feel and will stop whether cold or hot...but just not as aggressively.
I used to have similar problem on my old Falco. Check basics first - brake fluid bleed, then clean the calipers. I found this tool useful for pulling the pistons (not too far) out, then cleaning and re-lubing with a smear of red rubber grease.
Just to add to the above; fade will be reduced when hot with uprated but cold (discs and pads) performance will suffer. It depends what you want to improve exactly, presumably you want the cold performance uprating?
I'll be changing the pads on my speed triple soon, I will change them for EBC HH sintered pads. I'm no expert on bikes/brakes. But from experience, I did use them on my Gsxr, and found them to noticeably improve braking.
I'll be changing the pads on my speed triple soon, I will change them for EBC HH sintered pads. I'm no expert on bikes/brakes. But from experience, I did use them on my Gsxr, and found them to noticeably improve braking.
Tony, A trick we do on off road bikes that costs nothing but is VERY effective. With a half hour of your time spare put a water bottle in your pocket go for a ride on nice straight roads. Drag the brakes for a few miles. The temperature is right when you get instant steam on dousing the disc and caliper with the water. Do this a few times and it effectively steam cleans the disc and pads. Done right the "bite" of the pads Is significantly improved
Yep never had a problem and sharpens brakes up no end, you've obviously not tried it! Steam, as in boiled water is just over 100C at atmospheric pressure. Tempering colours; straw is around 220C from memory so no we are not re-tempering them. Start low on temperature and work up, you want steam not a dark blue disc!!!!!
Totally right steam at 100 degrees is not a problem, but I’ve turned discs bright blue before now. Not saying what you do is right or wrong but anything above 100 degrees will turn to steam so you don’t really know what temperature you’re getting it could be anything above 100!
If you wanted to be anal or you are worried, you could either use tempstiks or a thermocouple but personally I've never felt the need and I have both
Neither, I’m only saying without control you really don’t now what temps you may get. A lightweight crosser will not generate the same temps as a 200kg street bike. That’s all, not anal just realistic! I wasn’t dissing your post just explaining the realities, take it as you will
Glyn maybe I came across wrong as I didn't think you were dissing anything and yes the difference in bike weights needs to be factored in. Naturally trying something for the first time it pays to be careful and err on the side of caution hence start cool and work up. The results have always been impressive when I've done it.
