hello guys So i recently decided to adress my old eletrical issue on my 2010 S3, my problem was the usual headstock wiring breaking on the clamp, and once i turn the handlebars the bike would shut completely, if i just moved the wiring or touch the plug underneath the fuel tank and the bike would behave normally. Tired of this i adressed this issue to fix it once and for all. After changing all the wiring going to the key ignition it got better but still not 100% fixed, figuring the culprit being the socket plug that connects the ignition wires that goes from the key ignition to the main wiring loom. After that all sorted the bike was ok in terms of bad connections and the cluster would not turn itself off while turning the handlebars. All was working headlights, turning signals, horn etc. Then assembled the airbox, fuel tank and when i tought it was good to go and all fixed ... the bike does not crank at all. Sometimes it just give a ratling sound from the starter relay near the battery or simply just click and no crank. Check the video and please listen to the sound it makes when i try to crank it on the first 2/3 seconds of the video, the second attempt it just clicks and no crank. https://youtube.com/shorts/opQdOLSaSNM Ignore the cluster shutting down while moving handlebars that problem is now fixed. what i checked so far: -All the fuses are ok -relays near the battery seem to be ok, changed some around from same reference to see if it was a bad relay but the result was always the same. -battery is 2 months old, turned on many times whitout any front headlights in this wire testing, maybe it got drained, i notice that while making the ratling sound the lights on the cluster and the rear light weakens a bit. I gave it a quick charge but the result is the same. Now i am suspecting the battery is somehow not good. Any ideas of what could be malfunctioning? I am afraid with all the wire testing i fried something in the bike even not having any blown fuses or anything.
Well you may possibly have answered your own question. I would fully charge the battery and try again, then if still no luck, try another battery, ie borrow one if you can. If not come back for more ideas from people who know these things, not me. Lol
That sounds more like a short circuit than a rattle. My guess is something is not quite right in your wiring repair...
Hi, I think it must still be the wiring also, as with mine there were several areas not broken but chaffed giving shorts. At first I was going to repair, then decided to purchase a new ignition switch complete for around £118. I separated the switch part from the barrel as I wanted to keep the original keys. The wiring exits the ignition switch in a different place on the new one to prevent the problem reoccurring (Triumph must have been aware). All problems solved.
