SteveRS Can you share some details on your hard break in ? What kind of mileage, how much throttle and revs etc you are using and any observations on how it is running ? Thanks !
Absolutely. I’m still early in the process due to poor weather, but the most crucial mileage for piston ring seal has passed. Here is what I’ve been following. http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets. So, I’m at about 300 km’s and should be able to get to the 800 km service later this week. I did an oil change at 100km and will perform another at 400km then at 800km. After a full warm up I performed full throttle pulls from 3000 to between 7000 & 9000 RPM’s on some quiet back roads and a very low traffic highway. I did some half throttle pulls on my 10 minutes ride to my destination, then performed three sessions of 8-10 full throttle pulls with easy riding between those sessions. This was performed on my first two days of riding. From here on out I’m just going to enjoy riding my bike. I won’t do any redline riding for awhile or any constant throttle for long distances, other than that just ride and enjoy. Observations: All is normal no unusual sounds or vibrations. I have been using the quick shift and auto blipper from the start, which is operating flawlessly and very smoothly. I have noticed that the exhaust note is becoming louder the more the miles pass, which I want to happen. On the first day with the restricted discs drilled out the exhaust seemed quite quiet. Other than that every thing is normal. What an awesome engine.
Wow, thats a lot of full throttle pulls !! Not sure I am brave enough to give it full beans on fairly unscrubbed tyres and brakes that are not that well bedded in Saying that I live near the motorway so could probably go out at a quiet time and get a fair stretch of tarmac to myself. The article has an interesting take on why the full throttle runs are beneficial and how quickly you need to do them. Only thing I don’t really understand is if steady throttle running is bad then how do you get the bike fully warmed up without running it easy or missing the bulk of the window for sealing the rings. I’m guessing that just running at idle has no real affect as there is little pressure on the engine components so they just idle for a while to warm the bike up and then do the runs ?
This can easily be done safely. So, having a very quiet road allowed me to to pulls without having to brake, you need room doing this. These pulls where done on straights not in corners. The traction control kept everything safe during this process, I never noticed any issues with traction at all. In between the sessions I worked on brake bedding. After the pulls where done I started scrubbing in the tires in the countryside corners leaving about an inch of chicken strips left. These tires are very sticky by the way and easy to scrub in.
SteveRS, I've read yours, and a few others comments, about removing the reflectors from the forks; you say you pull some fishing line down behind them; Is that adhesive still soft? Has anyone done this on the S' Showa forks ? Sorry to be ignorant of all things Fish, but what type of fishing line? They are indeed ugly though.
Just pulled mine off with my bare hands then scraped the goo off with a credit card or similar and a bit of solvent to finish. Warmed up will make it easier . I don't think fishing line specifications are too critical !
Yes they are ugly, reminds me of children’s bicycles. Any line will do, even strong dental floss will work. Then roll the remaining adhesive off with your thumb. I don’t like to scrape at it, although the finish on the forks is very strong. If you use a plastic scraper like RSReggie mentioned it should be fine. I’ve done a lot of de-badging on vehicles over the years and this method is proven.
The manual states that 'All Models .... rear preload is not rider adjustable ' ; is this true, or just a legal cop out? Mine feels ok for me at the moment but it may need adjusting as I get to know the bike better ( or even become a better rider! ).
Hahahahaha, the manual is a joke for the most part. I believe this is because the factory can’t, or can’t be bothered, to give you preset settings for preload as they have done for rebound and compression. Preload (which sets static and rider sag) is completely rider weight dependant. I suppose they could give us settings for preload if they bothered to figured out the amount of preload needed for road use (roughly 30-40mm total sag) and track use (20-30mm) for a range of rider weights. This would be wise if you ask me. Adjusting preload incorrectly could result in more of a suspension issue perhaps than compression and rebound. Anyway, if you’re not sure on how to adjust the preload to attain proper sag settings, learn by watching people like Dave Moss or take it to a professional. I’m no professional, but found it very easy to learn how to adjust my suspension. Again Dave Moss is one of the best in the business. You can even contact him yourself for a remote tuning of your bike, pretty cool.
DiNO Welcome to the family. You do know we will expect a picture of the steed. And if you can't get that grin of your face. Don't worry nursey and triumph are working on a fix for it. She will administer it with your meds. Ride Safe & Enjoy Joe.
That's great Guys, thanks. I thought it must be OK to adjust, even on the showa. I've only been used to the cheaper 5 notched collar type preload.
I agree totally about the ugly reflectors! I pre-heat the reflectors using a hand-held hair dryer or you could park your bike in the sun for a bit before removing the reflectors. The other thing that helps is having a bit of patience and working your way down the reflector relatively slowly. Good luck and get those things offa there!
DiNO. IT'S a real cracker and great picture. The inmates will drool for ages and you will get extra meds for that colour. Ride Safe Joe.
Do any of you guys inform your insurer when you fit your Austin Racing or SC project etc.? ...and what do they say?
