Hi All, I've spent the afternoon changing the oil, oil filter and spark plugs on my 2011 Street Triple 1050. Whilst I was there, I also adjusted the clutch cable and tensioned the chain. I took the air filter out to change, but realised I've bought the wrong one, so I've refitted the old one for now. I obviously had the tank and air box removed to replace the spark plugs. I've used genuine Triumph parts for everything. Now that I've put everything back together, I've got a couple of issues; 1 - My gearbox light is on (yellow). I've not ridden it yet to see if there's any symptoms - maybe a result of over-tensioning the clutch cable? 2 - The bike is difficult to start and won't idle, it just dies. However, it does sound like it's firing on all cylinders when you rev it. Issue 2 is an odd one. When I fired the bike up for the first time when I was finished, it struggled to start (but I just put this down to the fuel getting through. Once started, it ran ok (although the gearbox light was on) and so I left it to warm up before re-checking the oil level. I turned it off, topped the oil up (right to the max. marker) and now it just won't idle. I can start it if I give it some revs, but I have to keep revving the bike to keep it running - it won't idle. A couple of things which may be relevant... 1 - The throttle body butterflies were a bit grubby, so I sprayed some break cleaner onto them. I think (thought?) that brake cleaner is the same as carb cleaner, so assumed that would be safe. 2 - When reconnecting the air box, there was one small rubber hose (maybe 3mm inner diameter) at the front left of the tank, next to a sensor, which I couldn't find anywhere it should be connected. I don't remember seeing it when I removed the airbox, but traced it back to the cylinder head. It's possible that it got pulled off something - but I did spend a long time hunting and couldn't see anywhere it might connect onto. I convinced myself it was some kind of vent. I'm going to go back to it tomorrow and just double-check I've connected everything properly and not pinched and air hoses etc. It would be great if anyone's got any tips before I open her back up again...
https://www.worldoftriumph.com/part...triumphmc/modelid/610102/block/100061027-3-2/ fuel tank https://www.worldoftriumph.com/part...triumphmc/modelid/610102/block/100061008-2-2/ airbox Here are exploded drawings of your bike. Handy for explaining which bits you mean. I ve not heard of this issue before. Brake cleaner should have evaporated by now. Does sound a little like you have trapped a fuel pipe. Have you connected to your throttle bodies to the air box correctly? Is it gearbox or engine light. How much did you adjust the clutch cable by?
The chemical composition must be different as I've generally found carb cleaner is more expensive for the same quantity/manufacturer than brake cleaner. That would make logical sense as fuel systems gum up so need different solvent properties. Obviously they both evaporate at normal temperature and pressure.
I’m not too sure about the 1050, but it sounds to me like you might have pinched a hose for the idle control circuit when putting the airbox back on, or even a fuel pipe as Sprinter says. As for your EML, did you turn on the ignition while you had it all apart? If so it’ll have recorded a fault because of a disconnected plug (air temp sensor or such) and as DD says, it’ll reset on its own, if you’ve reconnected everything.
As mentioned check what has been touched, based on servicing my Speed Triple 2010: - Fuel pipe is secured and no kinks or trapped by the tank -Air mass sensor on the air box is secure -Secure and sealed seating of air box on the throttle bodies (use a smear of Red Rubber Grease to help) - Vent pipes are correctly identified and secured in correct positions (tank air vent is very similar to fuel vent pipe but does a completely different job) - Gear box evaporation hose is secured to the air box -Spark plugs are correct rating and correct gap -HT leads are connected to the correct spark plug/cylinder -Oil level isn't too high ,(or too low) is it measured with dip stick screwed all the way in or resting on the hole - Is the battery charge where it should be 12.6v to 13v at rest with ignition/lights off Grasping at minor possibilities: -Could residue,water, rust etc have dislodged in the tank and block the filter (if it has sat long at any time)
"I've spent the afternoon changing the oil, oil filter and spark plugs on my 2011 Street Triple 1050" If it is a 1050 engine then it is a Speed Triple and not Street triple, this could explain the incorrect oil filter situation, could that also be the case for the spark plugs and worth checking oil used too? The specification between Street and Speed are very different
Thanks for all your tips guys. I’ll get back into it this afternoon and report back. By the way, I know I’ve got a speed triple - just a typo, sorry.
Update... IT'S FIXED!! I've still got absolutely no idea what was causing it. I basically retraced my steps from yesterday, triple checking everything before I removed/disconnected anything and then just put it all back together. Anyway, I'm confused, but relieved. Thanks all for your support!
You probably kinked something when you put the tank back on, I find it's better to make it a two man job, it's so easy to bugger something up when you try and do it alone.
Glad you are sorted. Now you need to do the rear hub and suspension linkages. Prob more important than air filter and plugs plus should be done every 2 years according to triumph.
Interesting - I’ll take those on this winter. Are there any guides around or decent maintenance manuals? I’ve got an issue with the gear changes too, which I’ve posted about before. I’m going to resurrect that thread....
Haynes do a manual for your model, I’ve got one for mine and it helps a lot with little tips that help make maintenance jobs go smoothly.
