Removing Front Mudguard Bracket

Discussion in 'Bonneville' started by Ricobanko1977, Aug 8, 2017.

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  1. Ricobanko1977

    Ricobanko1977 Member

    Jul 15, 2017
    27
    18
    Lymington
    I want to remove the front mudguard bracket (the one between the forks) to treat some rust and was wondering whether it can be done without taking the wheel off as?
     
  2. mixifix

    mixifix Active Member

    May 7, 2013
    108
    43
    mansfield
    bit difficult depends if you can get at the rust with wheel in
     
  3. Ricobanko1977

    Ricobanko1977 Member

    Jul 15, 2017
    27
    18
    Lymington
    No I mean can I take the bracket off without taking the wheel off. I'm not sure there is enough room to back the bolts out
     
  4. Ken walburn

    Ken walburn Noble Member

    Jun 28, 2017
    888
    300
    Essex
    Photos please
     
  5. Ricobanko1977

    Ricobanko1977 Member

    Jul 15, 2017
    27
    18
    Lymington
    Photos of what?
     
  6. Ken walburn

    Ken walburn Noble Member

    Jun 28, 2017
    888
    300
    Essex
    Photos of the bolts you are referring to in relation to the wheel. Once we have seen these, one may be able to offer you further advice one way or another
     
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  7. Ricobanko1977

    Ricobanko1977 Member

    Jul 15, 2017
    27
    18
    Lymington
    Oh sorry yes ill get some tonight
     
  8. mixifix

    mixifix Active Member

    May 7, 2013
    108
    43
    mansfield
    Yes you can take bolts out I replaced mine with stainless ones, there's a thought for you
     
    • Useful Useful x 1
  9. Ricobanko1977

    Ricobanko1977 Member

    Jul 15, 2017
    27
    18
    Lymington
    Oh right so you backed the bolts out of the bracket between the forks without taking the wheel off. How much room was there. Did the bolts almost hit the tyre?
     
  10. Ken walburn

    Ken walburn Noble Member

    Jun 28, 2017
    888
    300
    Essex
    No photos required then:)
     
  11. MickEng

    MickEng Noble Member

    Sep 29, 2016
    1,805
    450
    West Yorkshire
    Just take the wheel off it'll be a lot easier.
    Service your brake caliper at the same time.
    Use copper grease on the threads when you put them back in.
    Mine were all as dry as snuff, obviously none applied at the factory on assembly.
     
  12. Ken walburn

    Ken walburn Noble Member

    Jun 28, 2017
    888
    300
    Essex
    They do not grease threads at factory because can lead to torque setting discrepancy. By all means lube the threads but re-torque calliper mounting bolts after a full heat cycle of brakes (i.e. A road test)
     
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    • Agree Agree x 1
  13. mixifix

    mixifix Active Member

    May 7, 2013
    108
    43
    mansfield
    It was
    It was close but no hitting of the tyre
     
  14. MickEng

    MickEng Noble Member

    Sep 29, 2016
    1,805
    450
    West Yorkshire
    #14 MickEng, Aug 8, 2017
    Last edited: Aug 9, 2017
    Just take the wheel off it'll be a lot easier.
    Service your brake caliper at the same time.
    Use copper grease on the threads when you put them back in.
    Mine were all as dry as snuff, obviously none applied at the factory on assembly.
    Yes I agree Ken, but it's catch 22.
    Corroded nuts and bolts are a worse problem to me than a slight discrepancy on a torque setting.
    Problem being particularly with two dissimilar metals i.e. Steel and aluminium, is that the female thread generally within an engine casing or fork leg can corrode so badly that a correct torque loading would likely strip the thread on re-assembly.
    Copper grease for me every time.
     
    • Agree Agree x 1
  15. Ken walburn

    Ken walburn Noble Member

    Jun 28, 2017
    888
    300
    Essex
    Fair comment & I agree with the metal type issues. I'm not saying don't do it & I agree it saves a lot of grief when dismantling in the future. I'm just making people aware of a potential pitfall. Have witnessed on a few occasions calliper bolts not tight enough as a result. Just recheck your torques after heat cycle.Stay safe
     
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  16. Ricobanko1977

    Ricobanko1977 Member

    Jul 15, 2017
    27
    18
    Lymington
    The reason I don't want to take the wheel off is because I have no way of keeping the front wheel of the ground at the moment. I will get something in the future but right now I would like to treat the rust
     
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  17. Ricobanko1977

    Ricobanko1977 Member

    Jul 15, 2017
    27
    18
    Lymington
    What size bolts did you buy and what size spanner. Was it a 12mm spanner?
     
  18. Oldyam

    Oldyam Grumpy Old Git

    May 14, 2017
    613
    500
    ireland
    TBH if you lubricate the threads on any bolt as a rule of thumb you should reduce the torque setting by 20% especially when the bolt is into alloy as there is a real risk of stripping the threads, but I agree with @MickEng lubrication is a really good idea especially on stainless steel.
     
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  19. MickEng

    MickEng Noble Member

    Sep 29, 2016
    1,805
    450
    West Yorkshire
    #19 MickEng, Aug 9, 2017
    Last edited: Aug 9, 2017
    This is a cheap and safe way to get the wheels off the ground.
    Particularly useful for bikes without a centre stand
    £35 brand new off fleabay

    IMG_0759.JPG
     
  20. MickEng

    MickEng Noble Member

    Sep 29, 2016
    1,805
    450
    West Yorkshire
    You're absolutely right Oldyam.
    The reduction in friction due to lubrication does increase the residual bolt loading, so a 20% reduction on dry torque settings is recommended.
     
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