Is there a list on here of recommended local garages? I've tried searching but can't really see what I'm after. I've pm'd a couple folk from near me but not reply (may no longer check this site) I don't really want to go to a dealer (cost) and to be honest would prefer someome from here or trusted to do the work. After a great ride yesterday bike wouldn't start again, managed to bump start it rode fine but would cut out when not testing throttle. After researching it looks like stator or r/r, because I'm not gifted Ln the electrical life I gotta take it to a garage and see what they say. I'm also going to book it in for a service at the same time as brake fluid is low and want a safe working bike before I start putting money into cosmetics.
Chubzilla. Do check your plugs and caps first. also check the side stand and clutch switches. Have a look at the battery and connections. Make sure it is charging properly. And put a good carb and injector cleaner in with your next fuel fill up. Joe.
Hiya joe, hope your well mate, what carb cleaner do you recommend? My thunderbird is running terrible at the minute.
RsPete Yes well mate and hope to find your self similar. Personally I use the Lucas. But on the home page here some one was giving a glowing response to another one I was going to try. Joe.
Battery looks new and connections look good, I'll Google where side stand and clutch switches are and check those. Would dirty carbs cause it to not charge/hold charge? Or is the carb cleaner more of a maintenence/cleaning job?
Battery charged, Cleaned battery connections, checked that the side stand switch cuts engine off, Bike starts with clutch engaged and in gear so clutch switch works (I think that's how to check as it wouldnt start if it was faulty, correct me if wrong), I've also disconnected heated grips and trickle charge wire, I will remove plugs and take a look now I will take it out later after and make sure I'm on a hill when I turn it off and try it.
So took plug out of cylinder 3 and seems like I lot of oil on plug, is that normal for bikes or not? I checked posts and it says if oil above spark plug then the gasket cover ould be the issue but this is on the thread, it doesn't look like any in the air box, the oil level does look on the high side and looks pretty fresh.
OK. We’re a bit all over the place here. Remind us, what bike? When you say won’t start does it turn over or just not play? Any audible clicks, etc? Oil like that? Is there oil on the head because there is so much it could have created a well around the plug and soaked it as you unscrewed. Oil can get into a cylinder head three ways: Through an open plug hole Via worn valve guides Past worn/broken piston rings (don’t want to contemplate holed piston yet!) Worn rings would lower compression and make for problematic starting. The dead giveaway for valve guide problems is smoking exhaust on the overrun. Can you think it through and be more specific? I certainly think you are maybe a notch beyond learner territory for a health check on motor, ignition and charging systems.
I know a but but more about cars, first experience with a bike so not overly confident. I'll try and explain as best I can. Daytona 650, Rode for 90 minutes, got home and left bike for 2 days. Lights turn on, rev counter needle shoots to max and back, try to turn it over and get a click from under the seat and it trys to start but it doesn't, try again and lights on, rev needle goes to max and back but nothing, try a 3rd time but only neutral light comes on but not over lights and rev needle stays still. It bump starts fine, rode for 10 minutes would restart but bump started (I know this isn't long enough) so rode for couple hours, locked it away for the night, next morning started fine, rode for about 30 minutes, turned engine off but it wouldn't restart, bump started it, got it home and put battery on charge. Tried again and I'd fired up perfect rode it for a bit, came to it the next day and lights worked, rev counter needle spun round to max and back but wouldnt start again. So after some advice on a few checks to make I have Cleaned positive and negative connections, Checked kick stand switch, Checked clutch switch, Disconnected heated hand grips, And I was checking the plugs when I found the oil on them so thought I would check some posts and ask you guys before going any further. Plug 1, 2 and 3 had a bit of oil, Plug 4 had a bit more. I know I'm all over the shop and don't explain myself very well, does it make sense l? I'm not sure which end of the spark plug is the head.
Let’s set the oil to one side...... Electrics. You need a cheapo multimeter to find out what your charging system is doing. Either that or take the battery to a local garage and get it load tested. The symptoms you describe are either a dying battery (age/history?) or a problem in the alternator/regulator/rectifier circuit. A healthy battery should give about 12.7 v across the terminals. Engine at tick over you will get much the same but blipped with a healthy charging system will rise to about 14v. A battery load test measures amps which you compare with the rating on the side of the battery. It will be about 200 Cold Cranking Amps - it’s work output. Check the camshaft cover for signs of oil spillage into the plug recesses. Before getting too excited check oil consumption and any excessive exhaust smoke.
I'll take battery tomorrow after work to rule it out (I was told it was brand new in June but its best to be sure) Oil level is on the high side, It smoked a bit at start up but not constantly that I could see (white smoke) Thanks for the advice, I'm just trying to go through everything and rule it all out.
If you need professional help, Lee Bayliss, Triumph Tech. He has a unit at Bobbington Airfield. Does all my complictated stuff.
Overfilled with oil could produce excess crankcase pressure that might not all fire out of the breather into the air box or wherever. The oddity is that those threads are not exposed inside the cylinder head and oil does not usually flow uphill! It also looks too clean to have been in a functioning combustion chamber.
So that means, oil spilt on top of engine and leaked down or cam shaft gasket failure then are most most likely from what I've read. As annoying as I am asking loads of questions I'm enjoying learning (I just wish I was learning with a project bike not one I want to use now )
Thanks for all your help, I'll get battery checked if it's OK I'll clean plugs and holes and put everything back together and see from there.
Reg/rec will be the cause, easy fix and not that expensive, I have done a few on Triumphs amongst others, it is a fault on a lot of makes and models. Callumity is spot on with what he says. The issue with some is the location of the regulator, they generate a lot of heat and often get little in the way of air cooling and eventually fail.
This was a few months ago and battery was culprit but have since realised that there is a drain, The wire to front brake light is curroded and stopped working so I've got someone who is going to follow it back to its ground and replace and hopefully sort that. Would the regulator/rectifier cause the battery drain? It's ok and starts on the button but if left 2 weeks it won't turn over, even if on trickle charge after a month it starts but I lose speedo until I've been riding for half hour. QUOTE="Iceman, post: 517174, member: 17519"]Reg/rec will be the cause, easy fix and not that expensive, I have done a few on Triumphs amongst others, it is a fault on a lot of makes and models. Callumity is spot on with what he says. The issue with some is the location of the regulator, they generate a lot of heat and often get little in the way of air cooling and eventually fail.[/QUOTE]
Chubzilla Not so much drain as not charging at the correct rate. So may well need a new one. You will get there. Joe.