So I took off my rear wheel to replace some seized adjuster bolts and essentially nearly everything fell out of the back wheel. It ended up that a bearing had split and then chewed what looks like the casing and a seal...I'm thinking I've been dead lucky the wheel didn't jam...there was no signs from riding. Anyway... I need a detailed walk through or picture/s of the order to replace everything back in - consulted the Haynes but it's not very clear/visual. Cheers for any help all.
This is from a tiger 800 manual, don’t know how similar Can’t delete this image as it’s totally different more importantly look here what I’ve just found it’s a 1050
Cheers for that! Now I have replaced the sprocket bearing which was the one that has gone, put it all back it the correct order, checked, re-checked and checked again and I simply can not fit the wheel . back on! wtf! Any ideas, i spent 3 hours this evening doing it and go no where?!? Any bike i've had in the past this has been a breeze.
You might have put them back in the right order but have you checked the spacers etc are the right way round?
Yeah I've come back to it this morning and the staggered spacer then one with the shoulder that goes in the sprocket carrier is making it sit proud. Only by .5 cm but it's enough. Turn it round and it's a good 1.5cm so I'm sure it's the right way. I have put somes pictures below and I'm hoping someone can tell me I've been stupid. Correct bearings I've got an 07 plate 1050 First one with it assembled is with how the space should be I believe 2nd upside down And 3rd without the spacer showing just how flush the drive should be
The fourth picture from the top showing the spacer seems to still have the inner bearing track fitted and thus will not fit into the bearing / drive assembly as it should. Once the inner track is remove I'll bet that it will all go together nicely.
Oldyam has got it! Check that spacer and if it is as it appears to be with the old inner race on then that will need removing. Easiest way is to grind a line, edge on with the cutting disc, through most of it, then carefully pop the last bit with a chisel in the cut mark. It should spring open slightly allowing you to tease it off with screwdrivers etc.
Be VERY careful splitting bearing races / tracks they can be VERY brittle and can shatter / send nasty pieces flying so eye protection is a must.
Yes agreed, splitting hardened bearings requires eye protection. This is the reason why you shouldn't strike one hammer against another! Removing bearings from a blind shoulder such as this can be hard. Bearing separators sometimes work but not always. You could put the spacer in the freezer overnight then RAPIDLY heat the old race up with a blow torch the next morning. You need a good fast input of heat though for this to be effective and to utilise the different expansion rates.
I would suggest that grinding a flat across the bearing down to where the track becomes seperated may be the best way in this case and then tap it off or you could grind two areas 180 degrees apart so the track falls off.
Sorry for typo "should" should have read "Shouldn't" but well spotted Oldyam 108 degrees or 180 degrees
Sorry for typo "should" should have read "Shouldn't" but well spotted Oldyam 108 degrees or 180 degrees
Cheers all - having never seen it out of the wheel assembly its construction didnt look too strange! The rest of the bearing is off and the wheel is running smooth. Thank you all.
