So.. this all started about a week ago, before the dreaded lock down.. filled up with fuel and a few minutes later the bike started to pop and fart a bit, then it just stopped, would turn over but not start, or even try to start. Thought I would be pushing it home.. then after about 30 minutes I just tried it again, it started first time with engine light on, managed to crawl home, where is stopped again and would not start again. Got the fault codes which were fuel related, Fuel Pump primary circuit malfunction/Fuel level sensor circuit low and high input. So I cleaned all the connections from the fuel pump relay and all connectors to the fuel tank, cleared the error codes. The bike started first time with no engine light on!! Ticked over for 5 minutes then stopped again and would not start, left it for 30 minutes and it started again...... still no engine light so no errors recorded, any ideas or should I ring a priest ;-) I considered if the garage had bad fuel but I don't understand how it would restart and run for 5 minutes, and no fault codes makes it really tough to know where to start...
Sounds like electronics failing when hot...... Hopefully not ecu, crankshaft sensor may be? Can you hear the pump running ok?
Before you chase a phantom electrical fault I would verify you have not got water in the bottom of the tank. Refuelling coincidence or cause?
Thanks, ECU should not be getting hot? If it was as sensor I would expect an engine light and error code? I can hear the fuel pump kick in when I switch on the ignition, for about 10 seconds, then it switches off, cant hear it once started as my Blueflame exhaust sounds like Armageddon.. ;-)
Considered that but would the error codes come on initially for water in the tank? Guess I could empty the tank and refill.
Also, does it make any difference which fuel line goes where on the tank connectors? I have a red and a white line, I have the red line going to the bottom connector currently?
Hi, Not more than a month old, would bad fuel cause the error codes though? Don't understand how it will run for 5 minutes before stopping?
Do you know that there were no error codes before this recent problem? Unless cleared error codes remain, so could be from a previous problem, those codes could easily be registered by switching ignition on whilst tank is off and disconnected. When I said heat related electronics failure I meant internal discreet components self heating, not necessarily to do with engine heat. Other less likely (IMO) cause could be fuel filter blocking up whilst running, then partially clearing when flow has stopped for a while?
Only 4 main componens in the Management system Air + water temp, Crank then ECU I would look for poor connections somewhere first, starting at ECU use contact cleaner not brake cleaner, then check the sensors. Could be a discrete component in ECU getting hot then failing but that can happen to Crank sensot too.
Surely he wouldn't have got out his street if they are wrong way round and pump would have continud to run until it built up pressure, which would be difficult without fuel? Still thinking electrical/electronic!!
Don’t know about the error codes but could it be a blocked or partially blocked vent on the fuel tank. Start with the simple things first.
What are the symptoms of a bad pickup coil? Engine stalling engine stalling when hot One of the first symptoms of a bad ignition pickup is an engine that stalls. An old or failing ignition pickup may cut out signal intermittently, which may cause the engine to stall. The engine may suddenly just shut off, almost as if the key had been turned off
Again I would try with the filler cap open. Also make sure the air flow pipe to the filter box is clear and filter good. Regards Joe.
Update, cleaned out old fuel and tank, new fuel pump relay, new fuel pump and filter... same problem.. only this time the dash kept flashing on and off and the alarm started to cheep occasionally, until it stopped after 5 minutes, ECM? Is the Daytona ECM from the same year, 2002, compatible??