675 Pesky Clutch Switch...

Is there a screw that holds the switch in place that might be loose?

My brake switch is part of the harness also and it's been acting up. I found that a Japanese bike switch fits perfectly but the wires need to be clipped and female spade connectors added. Once that's done, it'll be easier to replace in the future. Maybe the clutch switch can a be upgraded the same way.

 

Unfortunately it is a common problem with street triples, out of the street triples I have owned, 3 of those had the fault, as did a Sprint 955i RS that I bought new, that failed whilst under warranty twice, and a third time out of warranty. I recall posting a thread on this very subject some time ago. What I did to solve the issue was replace the switch with an identical unit from a Japanese model, I cut the wiring from switch and loom soldering the wires together, then heat shrink over to protect the joint from water ingress. The main issue I found was water ingress combined with tight wiring routing causing internal fraying, jiggling the wires about sometimes works in getting a machine started, however the only remedy is replace the unit, the Street Triple 765rs range suffers from "joystick" failure, many people have had this issue. I have no knowledge of who Triumph use as their supplier of switchgear, although it is most likely Chinese, the fittings are not JIS so I very much doubt they are of Japanese manufacture. I do know who manufacture some of Triumphs accessories, and these are usually high quality British manufactured.

 

Just noticed my Street Cup switch isn't working anymore. I'm going to replace it with the Honda switch part# 35340-MM5-600. I test fitted one last time it was acting up so I kmow it'll work. Doesn't look like an OEM replacement is practical because it's part of the sub-harness. Can't complain too much since it's a simple fix and a good upgrade.

 

My Tiger 900 did that, after some looking around found the prong that is pressed by the clutch is way too close to the edge of the surface that presses it, where sometimes it may be missed. A bit of adjustment of the switch will point the prong more into the center of the surface avoiding the false start

I took my dremel and removed a bit of one of the lugs that hold the switch in place allowing me to move it just a bit.

no more failures in over 1 yr.

Crude diagram

 

Some bikes (like my Yamaha) go into closed-loop mode whenever the clutch lever is pulled in so connecting the wires together permanently, you won't be able to accelerate very well at all. If you don't experience that, your clutch switch is only there for safety.