Paint Bubbling On Engine

Hi mate unfortunately it's aluminium corrosion under the surface of the paint
It will need to be stripped back to bare metal and repainted
Warranty? Or to old?

 

That be oxidization surely, getting in through the smallest gap betweep paint and engine case.
Oxygen from the air, salt n crap off the road getting under the paint, then reacting with temperature changes (vaporising moisture when hot) spreading the gap allowing more crap to get in.

Best give it a bit of a rub down and some localised paint with decent undercoat..

 

A few Tiger owners on the Tiger forum have experienced this corrosion problem.
Some have had the cases renewed under warranty, so Triumph must already know about this problem albeit a few years ago.

 

I fully agree with you Crispey, I would be disappointed too. I found a spot on my front rim where paint lifted and it really bothered me, I couldn't wait for the weekend to end so that I could contact my dealer. Fortunately for me they are replacing my rim as it should not do that in the first place. I've been waiting several weeks now though but was told it's on its way. With the right paint and proper preparation you should be able to remedy it but hey I know how you feel. Good luck in getting it sorted bud.

 

Dremmel it to death, etch prime aerosol and top colour coat will do it for now. To do it long term it's engine out, bead blasting and thorough going over

 

My Bonnie is 5 years old and shows exactly the same corrosion as Crispeys if not worse.
I have used it through two winters and blathered it in FS365 last winter but feel the main damage was done from the previous winter when I didn't protect it.
Having said that it is bubbling from under the paint so it may be that no matter what you try and protect it with the corrosion will still happen.
My conclusion is that I bought the bike to ride all year round and the aesthetics will deteriorate.
If I ever need to strip the engine for any reason I will have the engine casings hard anodised in black which I believe will give the best finish and resistance to corrosion.

 

To be quite honest , you should remove the bubbled paint and give the aluminium a rub down to remove the corrosion.
It’s exactly the same as steel corrosion, get rid before any real damage occurs

 

Agreed! its the only way to treat a painted surface, so you can re-coat and make it look relatively OK again otherwise the area will just flake off like an old scab.

 

That's all it does DD - ACF-50 (Anti Corrosion Formula) forms a protective layer over the bike, which can be left on for a certain length of time and then later washed off - it's not a rust inhibitor or converter.

 

Just to add a little to the topic, the text below is from a thread on a model specific forum I'm also on :-

I've switched to using XCP rust blocker.
Comparison reviews find XCP outperforms ACF-50 easily:

https://www.bennetts.co.uk/bikesoci...-xcp-rust-blocker-corrosion-protectant-review

All-Year Biker has a slightly different take, but XCP still seems to be better for protection:

https://allyearbiker.co.uk/featured/test-feature-2/.

You pay your money...

It's defintiely worth reading the allyearbiker review as it does point out the fundamental differences of the two - ostensibly similar - products.

 

You need to be careful with rust remedies/removers because rust on steel is oxidisation, this can be treated with rust remedies.
Aluminium is corrosion which is a different chemical reaction.
Look up Aluminium corrosion to find the cure

 

The only way to definitely prove it is with a magnet.
steel is ferrous magnet will stick.
Aluminium non ferrous won’t stick
Unless it’s stainless steel, Aluminium dull stainless bright

 

That looks like something really aggressive has been left on the paint and exhaust studs.
Either salt or a really strong cleaner

 

Aluminium engine corrosion is a bit like death and taxes - it will get you sometime.
This might inform
http://www.alfed.org.uk/files/Fact sheets/2-aluminium-and-corrosion.pdf

Some bikes clearly have suspect finishes that fail prematurely.

The basic message is that aluminium corrodes quite readily but the resulting aluminium oxide is itself quite protective of the underlying surface - especially something chunky like a casting. The corrosion tracks along the edge of the casting under the coating but will then slow down unless you pick it off! If you do you have to replace the coating then start with an aluminium specific paint and then colour if you can’t dismantle to powder coat.
I have a small bubble on my chrome Bonnie alternator cover. I left it and it has barely advanced in 5 years.

 

You’ll find aluminium oxide under the paint - a grey white powder. Slap it in your armpits. It is a major constituent of anti perspirants!

 

It is fundamentally cosmetic but I would use a scraper to remove the paint then buff the aluminium with a brass brush to remove all loose oxide and shine the metal back to a solid edge in the finish. Medium wire wool would work too. You want a slightly rough finish to key.

Apply some high temp aluminium undercoat and once that has cured finish in gloss black to match the existing finish.......if necessary overpaint/mask off to achieve a neat/uniform finish. Bear in mind the curing temperature some of these paints need if it is barely 5 degrees.

And in a couple of years do it all again!

 

Like @Dozers Dad said it will suffocate corrosion only it will never stop what has now already entered. Look at it from an immigration point, boarders may be closed but by eck residents breed!! So in all fairness it would want an acid clean if your keeping away from proper methods

 

Engine out!!

 

This is where SWMBO can be a real help. Nick her nail varnish remover (acetone) for your final wipe down before painting.

Tip: In secret.

 

It is actually the best readily available aluminium surface cleaner