Oil Served Cold?

Personally, the only time I'd do a cold oil change is after some form of dismantling, like an engine rebuild etc. The last time was after a BEB change on the SUV where I let the oil drain overnight to minimise the oil drips when working underneath the thing.
For me, hot changes are the way to go. Any oil left in the system after, say, a 5-10min hot drain will be negligable.
If you have sediment in the sump you have an engine/oil/filtration problem IMO. Either that or previous oil changes have been neglected. There should be none.

 

All the manuals say do it with hot oil, I've had a variety of vehicles which have done high miles on this system, TBH I don't really see much point going against what every manufacturer and my own empirical experience have shown me to be effective on the basis of some Youtuber out for clickbait, as is likely here. But that doesn't have to stop you.

 

The "extra" oil that comes out is what's drained down from the top end and some of the galleries, meaning a slightly longer time to full pressure on startup, especially if there's also a filter change involved, plus it will be a cold start and any engineer/mechanic/petrol head will tell you that up to 90% (figure debatable) of engine wear happens on cold starts.
I'll stick with the hot changes thankyou.

 

I've mentioned the positives for a hot drain but can't think of any for a hot drain and cold refill. Assuming you're sticking to manufacturers drain intervals as a minimum I don't see the draining of a small amount of extra oil as a positive. If the oils been in there for years and many K's of miles then maybe.
I don't know if you've ever rebuilt an engine but accepted good practise is to disable the ign and fuelling and spin the engine over on the starter with the plugs out to prime the oil system, "wet" the components and build initial pressure.

If you need only one reason to do a hot drain and refill, do it because the manufacturer recommends it but what do they know?

 

Yes, technology changes but not necessarily for the better.
We now have engines running variable pressure oil pumps where you have to get oil back in within 10-15mins as the pump cannot self prime, cue catastrophic engine failure.

"Wet" cambelts where the belt runs in the oil!! Most of the new ICE "innovations" are aimed at one thing, increasing efficiency, making acceptable power while reducing emissions rather than targeting longevity. .

 

If a cold oil change allowed a significant amount more old oil to escape then I'd do it. I think it's more likely to have a greater significant benefit for larger car engines though, especially diesels.

I consider that refilling oil in to my bikes is usually directly in to the sump at the bottom whereas with cars the fresh oil is poured in to the valve cover at the top.

 

When I drained the SUV oil overnight the drips had almost stopped after 1 hour so I put the sump plug back in. When I removed the sump next morning to change the BEB's the amount of oil in the sump was, maybe around 1/2 L at most. This is on a large diesel engine that takes almost 11L on an oil + filter change. A big cast iron engine block like that will also hold heat, helping oil flow, much longer than a comparatively small bike engine.