Hi All, Hoping to get some advice on a new to me bike: It's not been run for a couple of years, and was involved in a low-speed off where the plastics were damaged, and there's an oil leak from the engine. I suspect the oil leak is a crack in either the alt-cover, or the clutch cover, either of which should be a relatively easy fix (I hope). But I was hoping to get some advice on more general matters - I've been riding a BMW twin for the past 13 years or so, so I'm a little out-of-touch with more modern engines. So - the usual newbie questions: Normal service intervals? Does anyone have a PDF of the factory service manual by any chance? Or is there somewhere to buy it? Best oil? (I know - a controversial topic! ) Advice for chain tension and is there a recommended tool for adjusting the chain tension? Does anyone have any good links for previous cafe-racer or street-fighter conversions and what needs to be done? I'm not sure what direction I'll go in for the re-build, but I'm not a big fan of fairings...
Absolutely. Luckily I've seen similar damage on previous bikes of my own so I'm not expecting any big problems, unless there's any weird things about the 955i engine that I ought to know?.
Cheers (copied here for reference) Another probably obvious question: What are the differences between the T595 and the SSSA 955i? Was it JUST a re-brand exercise, or were there any parts updates as well?
Anybody got any recommendations for the best workshop stand? I don't have one at all at the moment, so would like one that can get both out either wheel off the ground and will allow me to drop the forks, or work on the swingarm.
LOL! I just collected one of those from my dad this weekend! Was thinking of an Abba, I've never had one before.
Biggest difference between a t595 and a D955i is that the ecu changed from MC2000 to MC1000. A more bike dedicated bike ECU the original came from a Pugeot car. The 955i runs a lot smoother than T595's especially at low revs being less of a stop start jurky m?c Inlet valves can be an issue as is the starter sprag and like any triumph but especially SSSA models check the suspension linkages and rear stub axle have been lubed My T595 speedtona As a t595 powerbike race bike
Spot the issue! (new part on the way). I was also rather amused to discover that Triumph obviously used the same loom for the 4cylinder bikes...
Another Update: The more into this project I get, the more I find! Not really sure how things like this even happen.... I was planning to re-oil the forks anyway. Waiting for the Abba stand to show up so I can get the front off the floor. Brakes all look in good condition - Nissins are soooo much better than Tokico! I also checked the valves and found that 5 of them have closed up slightly so I'm just now waiting for the Triumph valve tool to arrive so that I can pull the shims and measure them. £35 for a tool was, for me, far preferable to removing the camshafts! I'm very glad this engine is shim-over-bucket! I love little details like this too :
Hi Nige, may well be possible, it's part 10 on this fiche for reference. http://www.worldoftriumph.com/trium...p?block_01=&block_02=301473-6-2&block_03=3374
I looked at a few on ebay and they're all one sided. I think the Triumph one is double sided so make things easier?
The valve tool finally turned up (i missed the delivery yesterday), but i was to busy fully servincing the forks with the aid of my new Abba stand that also turned up today! https://flic.kr/p/Upa49j
To be honest, its simpler and safer to remove the camshafts. I think I'll be ok, but rotating a cam against the valve follower without a shim in place doesnt seem to be a good idea. I had 5 shims that needed changing (over all 3 cylinders) and i thought i could get them all out then get replacements. But i think it's safer to use the valve tool only if you have a spare shims to hand.
