It's not as bad as it sounds! The bike; 2000 955i Daytona Series 1 shape, 4,900 miles. I should mention although I've owned this particular bike a year, I have only ridden it twice. I've stripped a lot off the bike today and it shows non of the usual signs of a home mechanic. Certainly, the last owner by his own admission would never attempt anything other than lubing the chain etc. I mention this because it doesn't look like it has been messed about with at all, although it is still a possibility. First up. I have found a spare electrical connection (pictured below) that is zip tied to the fuel rail and is the same as one of the connectors to the injectors. It is on a slightly different "branch" of the loom but follows back to same "main trunk" of the loom if that makes sense? The wires going in to the connector are the same colour as those going to the injector connections. The zip tie securing the spare connector is the same as the other one on the fuel rail (securing the injector feeds) and they look like original factory fitment to me. Certainly the markings on the zip ties match. Anyway, any ideas why it's there and why it is not connected to anything? Second, the bike runs well when it is cold but cuts out when warm and the revs drop to tick-over. I found that the barometric sensor tube collar was badly split (the tube that goes from the air-box to the ECU). Could this be causing the cut-out at low revs when warm? Picture; Lastly, the fan comes on as soon as the ignition is switched on and goes off about 3 seconds after it is switch off. It does this from stone cold. I have done some research around this and am at the point where I think it needs a new ECU but before spending £200 I thought I'd see if anyone here has anything further I can try. I have replaced the temperature sensor with a new Triumph one. I have also tried swapping the air box and water temp sender plugs over (I have read that them getting mixed up is quite common - same plug and both reach both). I know that on this model the fan is not on a relay but is controlled directly by the ECU. I have seen that it is not uncommon for a fried ECU to be the cause of a fan always on and that replacing it often cures the problem. My bike have only done 4,900 miles and so I'd like to think it is find but I cannot think of anything else I can try or anything else it could be - any further thoughts? Thanks in advance.
Where in Norfolk are you? Clive Wood is not that far away from you in Swineshead Near Boston. Clive is THE authority on these bikes and used to run Jack Lilley's team, Had tuition in the SAGEM EFI from SAGEM themselves and not the factory so was far far more in depth than tech training. Any Problems He is the man to contact. 07752477738
Hi, Thanks for your reply. I had heard of Clive, as you say, I know he is extremely highly rated. Unfortunately, despite being really helpful, he doesn't have the wiring diagram for my bike and so we could only go so far. I think I'll either have to by the Triumph workshop manual that has the proper, fold out wiring diagram in colour (£80 approx.) or just go for the new ECU (£200 approx). What I'd like to do if possible is avoid buying both, so that's the question. Hmm, decisions... I didn't ask him but I'm lead to believe that the spare connector is just that and related to a common base loom used on 3 and 4 cylinder bikes.
Hi Oscar, a couple of thoughts for you : 1. Re the split pipe - if it is not giving good vacuum it can seriously affect the quality of running and tickover. Here's how I would check it - using black tape, bind the bottom half of the split connection and cut of the split section. There should enough to reconnect to the airbox. 2. Re the spare, apparently unused plug - I've had two different Triumph and they've both had unused plugs on them. This is due to the fact that the main electrical loom is the same for many versions and some - such as California bikes - have additional anti pollutions bits requiring power. 2a. It's not the plug for the IACV control is it? This is a solenoid driven affair that control tickover and fit's into the underneath of the airbox on some models. 3. Re Triumph workshop manual - I have a digital copy of the 2002 onwards version for Daytona 955i. It's not precisely for your bike but it might be useful and it'll cost you nowt ???? If you want it, pm me your e-mail addy and I'll send it to you.
Thanks fellas, Re the pipe, daft question really as I will replace it regardless before I put it all back together. I was just interested if it could be causing the warm running issue. Clive Wood is of the opinion that the Idle Control Valve set-up is more likely to be the culprit. What he said makes sense, cold the bike is over fuelling and has a higher set tickover, both those things cease once the engine is up to temperature and if the idle control valve is not set correctly it will cut out. Like I say, I will replace the cracked air sensor tube and will be thrilled if it fixes it, if not it will be a trip to Clive for the ICV set-up for sure. The spare connector is for the California purge valve thingy and not so the loom can be used for 4 cylinder models as I previously (incorrectly) learned. Thank you. t552 asked me if I had spoken to Clive; Yes, I have, though he was limited with what he could do as he was using a T595 wiring diagram. The relay he thought should be the fan relay did not stop the fan when removed. My bike has three less relay's than a T595 and that (to my thinking) supports the theory that the bikes the same as mine do not have a relay for the fan but are controlled directly by the ecm (I have read that in a few places now). Having had a further fiddle today there is only one relay that stops the fan when removed. I think that relay is the main ecm one and it is identical to another on the bike, when I swap those two relay's over it does exactly the same thing. Don't get me wrong, I'm not at all knocking Clive for a moment, he clearly does know his stuff, but he'd not encountered this issue on a original shape 955i and didn't have the necessary wiring diagram to refer to so was limited on what he could do without seeing the bike. Contrary to popular belief, the old shape 955i was much more than just graphic changes from the T595, they changed the throttle bodies, larger airbox plus some suspension tweaks. Clearly the ECM and or loom changed too as definitely has less relay's than a T595. I think I'm probably going to go for a new ecm first. I can get a new one for £165 and Clive would not have to mess about with it for long to be well over that figure (plus he's busy until November). I have read that the new ecm has cured other people's 955i's that had the exact same issue. Plus, it's dead easy to try and if it doesn't work I dare say I can probably return it, less postage and a re-stocking issue. If it doesn't work out I will use one of my other bikes this summer and sulk until November and get Clive to look at the fan issue while he sets the ICV. Regardless, I will post here the result of the new ecm, I'll order it tomorrow and it should take a week or so. Thanks for the replies.
Hi mate, you do know that you can reset the IACV yourself for nothing, once you have TuneECU and the OBD Cable ???
No, I didn't and do have both. I recently remapped for the high level Triumph can. Thanks for the tip.
Yes Know what he's saying regard wiring. T595 uses SAGEM MC2000 (car based) whereas your ecu is a MC1000. A much more compact if less powerful unit but better suited a bikes needs and different connector with less wires going to it. Unless you have the specific diagram you are weeing into a gail.
Again, thanks for the replies fellas. I think the wiring diagram in the manual thebiglad sent over is the same as my bike, it has the right number of relays and no fan relay as per mine. I think I've chased the fault as far as I can and therefore I think I will go with what my research suggests and go for a new ECM. I'm 70% sure it will fix it but I'll post up the result (good or bad) as I dare say it will help someone else along the line. I had a closer look at the ICV last night and found that the rubber collars that attach to the ICV and the other end that attach to the throttle bodies are all perished to hell. Those collars are very similar is design, material and condition to the air-box one pictured above. It would seem likely that with these 6 connection sealing properly it will cure the warm running - result!! I'll post up the ECM results as soon as they're known. Thanks.
Just a quick thought Matt, but as your IACV hoses are all so perished therefore not creating a vacuum; it might be worthwhile to check in the manual what functions the IACV has input with. I have a funny feeling it's more than just tickover ?????
Just an update. Shrink wrap and a smear of rubber grease on the IACV hoses cured the running/cut-out issue. A new ECU cured the fan always on, though before you fork out for a new one as I did, make sure your bike does not have a fan relay (like mine). Several models do have a fan relay and if yours does it is more likely to be that - lucky you @ £15 v £165.
