Traded in my DRZ 400 for this Triton, soon have it on the road it is a T120 with 750 Morgo conversion and 5 speed box housed in a Wideline frame
Nice!! Slimline frame would be my preference, but that would be me being picky although Widelines can be a bit of a groin stretcher! That Suzuki 4ls front brake is a cracker, even if it was, allegedly, not quite strong enough for a GT750. Worked well enough on my GT550 and was brilliant when I relined it with Ferodo green racing linings. First application of the day required caution as it was VERY sharp, but after that it worked beautifully and would have been more than enough to halt a Goldwing in its tracks. Enjoy! My jealousy is boundless!!!
1st job is tank to be painted Ford Ruby red with black n silver coach lines. the motor has been rebuilt with new cam bushes n cams, head has been done with new guides and seats recut, all bearings replaced 7 plate clutch in, basically just a cosmetic makeover. to complete it i swapped the DRZ with my son, he commutes 30 miles a day and as i now work from home i thought he could use the drz more than me. it did cost me a bit of cash as well LOL. we built the engine together so i am fairly confident it should be OK
Okay then. Don't forget that we are going back to the early/mid 70s here so I may have forgotten something. Anyroadup ..... Slacken off the brake cables. Undo the locknuts between the two actuating arms on the adjuster rod on one side. With the front wheel free to rotate, turn the connecting rod until first one and then the second shoe are fully up against the drum. Back off the rod until the wheel turns with just the faintest rubbing noise (shoe on drum). This centralises the shoes. I think I then backed it off a bit more - about half a turn - until the rubbing noise disappeared. Don't touch it until after .... Repeat the above for the other side of the brake, but lock up the adjuster rod when shoes are just rubbing. Go back to the first side and turn the adjuster back the half turn or so and lock it up. Take up the slack on the cables as required, making sure that the balancer on the brake lever is free to do its job. Job should then be a good 'un - assuming I've not forgotten anything vital! Just remember that one side rubbing sounds very much like two sides rubbing which is why when the first side is adjusted it needs to be backed off a known amount so that it can be re-adjusted correctly. Hope this all makes sense!
Thinking about it after posting ... adjust brake cable on one side until it just increases the rubbing on that side and then back it off a couple of 'clicks'. Adjust the other side until rubbing increases slightly and back it off one click. Re-adjust the first side to suit (probably just one 'click' - unless you needed more 'clicks'). I'm knackered now, trying to revive a forty odd year old memory! Where's me Horlicks??
Feckless. Nice Triton there. You going to be a 59er down the Ace soon. Great bike great pictures. Enjoy. Joe.
Well had an afternoons tinkering yesterday. The front brake is set up now and pulls evenly on both cables when applied thanks Steve goolie for the tip. I have temporarliy wired it up and have sparks at the plugs. Fluids in engine just need to make sure oil pump is doing its job. Then try and fire it up this week before sending tank for paint . Will be the weekend before i get chance as the roads are drying out nicely and i fancy a run out on the Harrier today then off for some walking with the dogs for the rest of the week. The joys of a weeks holiday, just wish i could afford to retire as i could live this life very easily
