So it seems my bike has developed a bit of a hot start problem. A quick bit of digging and there seems to be a few issues and ways to tackle them. My bike is a 10 plate Speed Triple, the hot start has only just developed. I've tested the battery it's serviceable and rated 90% so not perfect but loads of life left. Tested the regulator and it came up faulty, over charge. So it fits with the fault of start problem. Is it worth getting a genuine Regulator or is there a better after market one available and is it worth trying to reposition the regulator for better cooling? Sorry if a bit long,
Not sure why the regulator would cause a hot start issue. if the regulator is damaged it would cause the battery to overcharge. can you elaborate anymore on the hot start issue please?
I agree, regulator shouldn't give start problems. Check starter switch and all wiring, including routing. Is there any burning smell immediately after switching off by the grip. Sounds to me like a wiring problem and would start there. Like all us home grown tinkerers, quick search on google may also give suggestions. Good luck
OK, it will start from cold. Strong cranking and fires smoothly. After a run of 30mins or so I can stop and be off the bike for a while upto an hour. When I try to start it seems as if the battery is flat, a jump start and it will go. But the same problem again if not left to go cold. Doesn't effect the performance in anyway when running, just starting from hot.
Heat is the enemy of 'wiggly amps' as dilligaf would say . a hot starter motor or starter relay will draw more current . heat causes great resistance in copper wire ! And any heavy copper components . if you can easily access the starter motor and relay , pour cold water over them just prior to a "hot" "start" , this was a common fix on 1975/1982 Ford Falcons in Australia !!! I had a 1979 Falcon and had to do this regularly at petrol stations on hot (38°+ days) it works ! Just give it 30 seconds to cool enough , couple of splashes of cool/cold water !!!
If this were a car engine it would often point to a crank or camshaft sensor so if a new starter solenoid dont cure it look at sensors on engine.
Starting with a jump start points to heat in the starter motor or relay ! More amps available to defeat the heat induced resistance ! If it was pickups or such it wouldn't start until cold
I have the same problem with my 2011 speed triple. The 1st time it happened, I'd called at petrol station on way home from work, about 20 min ride. Thought battery was flat, and phoned brother in law to come jump start me. Happened a couple of times since. I started calling for petrol on way to work, as its only 2 mins from my house, and because mi bikes not hot, it starts perfectly. It happened again Monday. Had to call on way home, I was expecting it not to start, and it dint let me down. Pushed it off forecourt, and waited 10 mins, and fired up no problem.
95% of all ECU controlled hot start problems are ECU coolant temp sensor related. the default is to run start fueling rich which is fine for cold engines but make hot starts very hard.
Most ECU controlled motors that have liquid cooling and have auto fuel enrichment for cold start have a heat sensor in the coolant system which tells the ECU if the motor/coolant is hot or cold so can auto adjust the fueling to suit IE auto choke if this fails it causes the ECU to run the fueling as if its cold full time which in turn causes hard starting.....however this is also combined with a idle air bypass system and on some bikes this is all that's used so dosent apply to all.
Yeah, ok, but its like the battery is flat whilst the engine is still hot. When it cools, after 10 mins or so, the battery is back to normal.
Time to get the meter out and start checking al the electrical wiring starting at the battery and working backwards. Also check reg/rec initially too.
If that's the case then i would suggest getting a new battery first as the 10 min cooling/waiting period is allowing the battery to recover enough charge to start.
Hi. I have the same problem, same symptoms anyway. Also a 2010. I replaced the battery and still have the problem. What next please?! Thanks
I also have this problem in my 2009 it appears relatively common. Triumph hopefully know what causes it and have a fix? Is it possible to access their service department? The comment that the battery may be recovering is unlikely. My bike exhibits symptom of a ftat battery then at home, about one mile later, the battery reads 13v. An auto electrician tested the battery and it's good. The problem is more frequent now but has occurred with the last three batteries.
I had this during the English summers on my Speed Triple 2010 I changed the battery to a Motobatt and installed an Electrix regulator I think that fixed the problem but wasn't long after I was knocked off and it was an insurance write off so don't know if it was a long term solution
I also installed a voltmeter tucked in the front screen above the clocks so I can always see what is going through the battery
