Never attempted anything like this so very uncertain about the whole thing.... Everything from taking the front wheel off to removing the forks is a first for me.... I've been told it can be done in a couple of hours but I've allocated four days to do the job from dismantling to reassembly... I'm certain that I will mess up so bit of advice will be very appreciated..... Here we go....
If you have a manual, you can read it & your tools didn't come out of a christmas cracker? You'll be fine mate!
Couple of tips ducky. 1. Create a good clean space to work in. 2. Support the front of the bike securely ( saw your post re the front stand). 3. Loosen the top yolk clamp but leave the bottom one secure. Makes getting the fork top nut loose easier. 4. With the fork out use an Allen key to undo the bolt holding the damper unit in place. Doing this with the top nut still on but loose and the spring under tension is much easier. Top tip, an impact driver is useful here to shock the bolt loose. 5. When you are ready to install the new seal drive it gently into place using the old one as a drift and be sure to use some electricians tape at the top of the stanchion so the new seal has no sharp edges to contend with as you slide it onto the stanchion. A bit of oil here will also help the seal to glide into place. 6. Be absolutely certain that the stanchion is 100% clean, any grit or rust will shag the new seal before it’s even had chance to do its job and you will be doing the job again sooner than you think. 7. When refilling with oil make sure the correct method is used to get the right level, some say spring in some say spring out, RTFM! Other than that, it’s a piece of p!$$
Axle bolt don't wanna budge... I'm not too sure of the state of that bolt... I don't want to RIP it up.... Am I supposed to use a breaker bar on it or blow torch to heat it up a bit...
Coffee break time.... Oooh I just thought... I slackened the two clamp bolts I think they are called but maybe they should be even more slack or even removed... ( pinch bolts....I meant pinch bolts not stupid clamp bolts ).... Have a look after coffee cake and playtime with the puppies...
I was just going to say, did you slacken the pinch bolts at the bottom of the forks. It’ll be pretty tight, my Daytona is about 60Nm IIRC
Not only slackened but now removed just in case.. I've just read online that the front axle bolt is torqued somewhere in the region of 100 - 140 foot pounds..... No wonder I can't shift it..... Is there a knack or a trick to doing this without knocking the bike over....
Ideally get someone to steady the bike. If that isn't possible? Stand in front of the bike with a leg either side of the front wheel. As you'll be pulling the wrench/breaker bar towards you. If you put your left hand on the front of the bike, you should be fine mate?
I did it... Now all I need is a change of underwear..... I don't squeeze that hard on the kazi but if I'm ever constipated I know what to do. ..
Yes mate, but also reminding you to loosen off the top nuts as well, if you don't do it before you take the fork leg out you'll never get them undone, just loosen off a couple of turns that's all. The part that pinged off looks like half a washer, is the other bit still on the spindle?
Oh dear, that's fooked it! Best get on e-bay & see if you can get another spindle by the look of that, the allen key might come out when you turn it the other way to tighten, but I would replace otherwise tyre changes are always gonna be a problem.
Other bit of the washer pinged off into outer space..... That's not the worse of it.... It was all going so well....
Duck, the front lifter should be in situ before you remove front wheel mate, looks like you may have to remove the black plastic bit between the forks to get the stand lug in under the bottom yoke, but if gently lift the front end back up you should be able to get the front stand in.
