So what started out as a simple swap of the front brake pads and a new tyre has resulted in a fork oil change also. Whichever garage changed the front wheel last time has managed to cross thread one of the pinch bolts on the bottom of the fork so when i went to pull the wheel the pinch bolt snapped, didn’t matter how careful i was i could just tell from the start that this would be the outcome. Anyway one fork is at an engineers to get the snapped bolt out, think it will likely result in a lock nut and bolt but they will see what they can do. So thought since i have one fork leg off i may as well replace the oil. Its seemingly supposed to be done every 12K some suggest 6K well this bike with 20K doesnt look to have been done in the past. My dilemma is that specifications state to refil with 486ml of new 10 weight oil. I have been pumping and draining for hours and there is only just shy of 445ml thats come out, so do i fill with amount that drains or do i put in 486ml whats the thoughts?? Cheers Mark
Ok so if your that far in are you replacing the seals cos if you do youll have them so far apart youll have all the oil out. http://www.triumphrat.net/sprint-forum/495458-sprint-gt-fork-improvements.html http://www.triumphrat.net/sprint-forum/54497-fork-oil-increasing-viscosity-and-oil-level.html I did mine last year and the pinch bolt snapped! I would read through these links, some guys changed shims, to get an improved ride, some, increased the amount of oil, some guys increased the viscosity of the oil, I didnt want to go as far as changing shims. My concern was the dive on inital braking. Im happy to say I improved this to my satisfaction by adding the specified viscosity oil, and increasing the depth by 5ml in each fork. The ride is hard when under 30 mph when going faster its smooth and reassuring. Copaslip your fasteners on rebuild. This might help too;- http://www.bowl-of-mice.co.uk/ServiceJobs.html I have 486 ml ( more important is the depth of oil is the same in each leg 105mm) 10w too
Check the manual..... The oil volume is as much about the air gap as the oil damping. The air gets compressed too. The other ‘joy’ is that different manufacturers have differing ideas about the viscosity of fork oil and its nominal weight. Triumph normally use Catrol so take your cue from their products.
Thanks for all the thoughts much appreciated. I simply have the forks upside down with the spring out and pumping every now and again. I’m not intending changing the seals everything seems fine no leaks, just thought since im in for one being off makes good sense to change the oil. I’m happy with the ride as it was so will stick with the 10W. I can easy check the height of the oil when i take the other one off when i get it back. Cheers
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2007-Tri...476845?hash=item41cc7ad76d:g:G5wAAOSwY7VZieg8 If you check http://www.worldoftriumph.com/trium...ck_01=&block_02=100066949-0-2&block_03=232950 The part numbers for the ST and GT right fork leg are the same.
Good to know cheers for that. Hopefully they can sort it out, i dont mind it being a lock nut to be honest as long as both sides are pinched as opposed to only the one. Will see how i get on with the oil level on the other one
I have seen here http://www.motorbikespecs.net/index.dyn/Aaron%20Lancaster/contact.dyn?flag=2&model_id=5834456&make=Triumph that the air gap is 120mm for the normal ST 1050 with a 460ml amount of oil. So still trying to determine what it will be for the GT since its spec is 486ml of oil.
Found this useful page: https://ascycles.com/pdf/TriumphSer...a Sheet - Sprint 1050ST and Sprint 1050GT.pdf So 105mm compressed
Didn’t bother with getting the pinch bolt drilled out i bought and replaced the lower leg cheers Sprinter. So all put back together new oil and seals was really helpful reading and watching these: http://www.triumphrat.net/maintenan...l-seals-bushings-springs-and-gold-valves.html And getting torque values here: http://www.triumphrat.net/attachmen...n-chart-triumph-sprint-st-torque-settings.pdf Couldnt believe the state of the fork oil it was well past needing replaced, lots of info on the web suggesting 6K change as opposed to 12K