Anyone done the maths to know how many revolutions of the back wheel on a Street Scrambler will ensure all the length of the chain has been lubricated ? ... in the old days I just used the fishplate as the guide but in these modern times I find I’m either grossly over oiling or, as my dealership said on a service, “Your chain is dry”... I once had it in to them thinking I’d got an engine oil leak but I was overoiling the chain and it was dripping down the casing. I’m thinking using the tyre valve as the visual marker will be the key to answering the problem if anyone can enlighten me ... mucho thanko in advance
Cliverdee Yes I go with the dot on the link or just a small string around a link. There was a great thread about using 80/90 gear oil like I do these days and it really is the way to go. I use a toothbrush and some oil and it works great hardly any splash of or anything like that and the chain seems quite smooth. Or fit the chain oiler. Regards Joe.
Isn’t the rivet link obvious? They usually have an indentation on the pins unlike the other links, unless it’s an endless chain from the factory?
Thanks for replies...I can’t see an obvious link in the chain so sounds like the spot of tippex and then count the revolutions of the rear wheel to judge that the whole length of chain has been cleaned/ lubricated as a guide for future reference... thanks again all
End of the PCP term. I thought about keeping it but have been swayed towards a 175bhp KTM instead. It was totally reliable though and I enjoyed it but I’ve got a hankering for something with a bit of weather protection and touring ability.
2 3/4 turns of backwheel on my T120 assume scrambler going to be about same. I use wax type lube so just wiped the white wax off one link and turned wheel etc.
2 3/4 turns of backwheel on my T120 assume scrambler going to be about same. I use wax type lube so just wiped the white wax off one link and turned wheel etc.
Generally if you look at the chain there will be one link that has two indents the others just rivetted that's how I do mine. Or indeed a bit of tipex. Joe.
Cheers yes worked out it’s 2.5 rotations of wheel by (as suggested) a splodge of tippex on a link. I use the air valve as the guide so put it to 6 o’clock and lube the chain for 2.5 rotations and stop when the valve is at 12 o’clock.. used to be easy to judge for chains with the split link
Don't fit chain luber took my scot one off to messy oil spots everywhere and chain covered in grit the guy who owned the bike before me never cleaned the chain or guards!
I started out in the days of boiling non oring chains in a tin of Reynolds chain grease on the stove and have probably tried pretty much everything in the world of chain lube since. From classic small Italian singles to 140bhp superbikes. If you keep your mind on what you are trying to achieve, optimum performance, reducing wear and and cost and avoiding chain failure. Not necessarily in that order. My advice is Clean your chain with parrafin and a soft brush, dry it, I use a microfiber cloth, then apply a thin coat of EP 80/90 gear oil to the inner chain run only, with a cloth or soft brush. Oiling the outer run is a waste of time, that will instantly fling off no matter what lube you use. Oil doesn't attract crap like greases do and chain and sprockets are gears after all. For touring I use a tuturo chain oiler, it's years old and I've used it on various bikes from Morini 350 to Tuono and RSV. Oil penetrates, grease builds up where there is least friction. Just my pennies worth.
