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Different Types Of Air Injection Removal Kit

Discussion in 'Bonneville' started by Dozers Dad, Jul 9, 2018.

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  1. Dozers Dad

    Dozers Dad Bushmills Chief Quality Controller
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  2. Yorkie199

    Yorkie199 Well-Known Member

    Jul 10, 2016
    121
    93
    North Lincolnshire
    Delboy does a good video on YouTube about AIS removal it's worth a look if you haven't already seen it
     
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  3. Yorkie199

    Yorkie199 Well-Known Member

    Jul 10, 2016
    121
    93
    North Lincolnshire
     
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  4. Smilinjack

    Smilinjack Crème de la Crème

    Aug 14, 2016
    2,071
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    Blanking plug for the little secondary air distributor. To eliminate EMLs I guess. But why would you want to remove AIS? does bugger all as I see it. :)
     
  5. Dozers Dad

    Dozers Dad Bushmills Chief Quality Controller
    Subscriber

    The pipes have started to blue Jack.
    I don't mind removing the blueing once but I'd rather not have to keep doing it.
    Apparently removing the air injection will stop it reoccurring.
     
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  6. Dozers Dad

    Dozers Dad Bushmills Chief Quality Controller
    Subscriber

    The seller offers two types of kit. One for carb bikes & one for EFi bikes.

    Several other sellers offer the same (non EFi) kit for both carb & EFi bikes?
     
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  7. dilligaf

    dilligaf GRRRRRR
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    Mar 30, 2017
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    Yep that’s how I did mine :)
     
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  8. Tallaferro

    Tallaferro Well-Known Member

    Feb 26, 2018
    86
    68
    Catalonia
    May be a silly question but...

    I just blocked the air intake hose with a 11 mm steel bearing ball and let the engine run for 20 minutes for the controller to re-adjust.
    What is the advantage of physically removing the complete system more than cleaning up and the weight?

    I keep seeing people doing the complete removal and an aftersales market around it so I guess there must be a reason.

    Really do not know so any advise would be wellcome
     
  9. crispey

    crispey crispey creme de la creme

    Nov 6, 2014
    5,696
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    sw london
    Both ways are acceptable, I removed all of mine, I don’t know why, just did.
     
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  10. Smilinjack

    Smilinjack Crème de la Crème

    Aug 14, 2016
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    Same as VFR. Block the pipe and disconnect PAIRS valve. Also makes flapper valve stay open so full use of airbox all the time. Now that bike really does change after this mod. :)
     
  11. Yorkie199

    Yorkie199 Well-Known Member

    Jul 10, 2016
    121
    93
    North Lincolnshire
    I'm thinking of doing mine but I've got the TORS pipes on and I love the popping when I'm slowing down and apparently AIS removal gets rid of that , but my question is, my T100 has the snatch throttle at low revs so low speed stuff is interesting sometimes but does it help cure that cheers.

    Chris
     
  12. Yorkie199

    Yorkie199 Well-Known Member

    Jul 10, 2016
    121
    93
    North Lincolnshire
    I'm thinking of doing mine but I've got the TORS pipes on and I love the popping when I'm slowing down and apparently AIS removal gets rid of that , but my question is, my T100 has the snatch throttle at low revs so low speed stuff is interesting sometimes but does it help cure that cheers.

    Chris
     
  13. Smilinjack

    Smilinjack Crème de la Crème

    Aug 14, 2016
    2,071
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    Exactly why I did my VFR and it made a different bike of it. No guarantee the Triumph will benefit but worth a shot. Don't have to dismantle it, just block it off first. :)
     
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  14. Eric_H

    Eric_H Member

    Oct 17, 2014
    38
    18
    Blackburn, Lancashire
    I've fitted the Norman Hyde Peashooters and removed AI, the bike still pops a bit on the over run with the throttle closed. With the AI connected it was unbearable and the bike sounded like it was broke. In my opinion it's just right with it removed. Not sure what the affect would be with TORS, you could try blocking the AI feeder pipe that comes from the air box just to see I suppose.
     
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  15. steve lovatt

    steve lovatt Something else
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    May 12, 2014
    4,939
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    The "kinda electronic plug block-er-off-er thingy...." is for the EFI bikes. It fools the engine management system into thinking that the SAI is still there even though you've removed it, otherwise you get the orange light permanently on your dash. I removed all of mine as I saw no point in leaving something on the bike that was no longer doing anything and I did use that kit.
    You might find "Keefs" rantings on the subject amusing mate! https://bonniemods.info/ :cool:
     
  16. tcbandituk

    Subscriber

    Apr 8, 2016
    1,140
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    We've got two Bonnies, both with TORS pipes.
    My wife's has all the kit on still and pops and bangs on the overrun, mine has it all removed and doesn't pop and bang on the overrun.
    I'm not that fussed about the noisy overrun and wanted to junk the useless kit off the engine/airbox :)
    Plus if it's popping and banging, it means the throttle's shut :eek::D

    I've been told not to do it to the wife's Bonnie o_O

    Mine is a bit snatchy on the throttle but it's not a real issue and I'd guess some of it is down to it being a twin anyway....
     
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  17. dilligaf

    dilligaf GRRRRRR
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    Mar 30, 2017
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    Still got a bit of popping on mine but not as much :)
    I also changed the air filter for a K and N and removed the snorkel :)
    All this helped with the snatchiness :p
     
  18. Eric_H

    Eric_H Member

    Oct 17, 2014
    38
    18
    Blackburn, Lancashire
    #18 Eric_H, Jul 10, 2018
    Last edited: Jul 10, 2018
    From what I understand the snatchy throttle is when the ECU goes from closed loop to open (or the other way around, can't remember. I suffer from CRS) and afaik the only real remedy for this is to remove the lambda sensors and run a custom map, removing the AI does help a lot but doesn't completely stop the throttle snatch at low revs. At some point i'm gonna remove the Lambda and will more than likely go with one of the TTP tunes. I'm tempted to remove the 02 sensors and block the hole on the headers then disable the check with TuneECU just to see what it does but I'm not fully confident as to what this will do without a custom map that alters the fuel/air at the low % throttle opening.
     
  19. capt

    capt Senior Member

    May 8, 2016
    873
    250
    western Australia
    Hi Eric_h and all, I've done all the removal works, there is no I repeat no aid related fittings left on my bike ! Clean headers no oxygen sensors (plugged) no stems into exhaust ports, no controller. Its all gone ! My air box is opened up top and bottom, you have to cut out/open the bottom of the air filter too ! This is only 3% or so less efficient than putting pod filters on and there's no extra cost's from buying different pods filters !I have 904 cc big bore kit with high compression pistons. Bike has been tuned/setup on a dyno it's only approximately twice as dear as a ttp tune and it's more suitable to your individual engine !! I had to upgrade/uprate the clutch springs as slipping was occurring under heavy acceleration over 4 or 5 thousand rpms , this will begin to occur in motors producing 65 + HP as clutch is built for 55/60 HP range ! The ais removal for popping is recommended and worthwhile ! Doing air box etc is more than worth it , but we are now into individual preferences and choice's ... Big bore kit was merited in my case as I wanted more torque as I tow a trailer !

    Cheers capt.
     
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  20. Eric_H

    Eric_H Member

    Oct 17, 2014
    38
    18
    Blackburn, Lancashire
    Thanks for that Capt, I'm not bothered about more power just something that runs smooth and handles alright. I do love the Bonneville so I don't mind spending a bit of money and time to get what I'm after. I've had the SE almost 4 years now and slowly away I'm getting there but like I've said before I'm going for a slow push in regards to modifications so that I don't end up throwing things at it and ending up with something I'm not happy with. the NH Peashooters were a good choice as were the Hagon shocks. So did you remove the 02 sensors and run the original map or did you run a custom map? I tried a few maps when I changed to the NH peashooters and the best map I found was the one that the bike came with all the rest seemed to make the bike run to lean or to rich even after I'd done a reset on the adaptation
     
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