Seems we have expertise on the forum of people who get paid, routinely and for their skill at such, at Hammers and Spanners. So I'll ask this as an Auteur; my habit is if it's not inside an engine or gearbox to routinely put a dab of grease on a thread when putting anything together. Came to mind when I was refitting the footrest today and thought there were traces of threadlok on the bolts that hold the peg on. I coppasliped it in case I ever want to take it off again but what's the actual 'I do this every day not once in a blue moon' approach?
Copper slip on everything that I take apart and put back together Like you though not inside engines and gearboxes
Been autocorrected? Amateur not ‘auteur’ or maybe you are a celebrated film director of unique style - the professional term is otherwise ‘nut strangler’. Anti-seize is to allow disassembly and prevent corrosion rather than ease assembly. Different materials are liable to burr and fret too. Furthermore most torque settings are lubricant free. That said, foot pegs need to be secure with adequate rather than exact clamping force. I would google a few sites about how fasteners work. It is quite illuminating to we auteurs/amateurs!
The couple across the road have made a film... They just don't know they have On topic I think it's the frustration of old vehicles and seized threads due to electrolysis that leads me always to make something undoable even if I never intend to undo it.
On the bike I used blue loctite so that whatever I have done up doesn't undo itself. Wouldn't Coppaslip do the opposite?
As I understand it (YMMV) if it's torqued up right it wont undo. Out of curiosity once I owned a torque wrench I looked up the settings for stuff that I usually wouldn't use a torque wrench for (I only use one for head bolts, big end caps and cam bearing caps normally) and you'll find your natural 'that's enough' hand setting is way tighter than specced. Threadlock gets specced on things like disc bolts (once threadlock was invented) but I've never been a fan of the stuff. Derailing my own thread, my (remember, YMMV) my pet technique for torquing down small stuff (where 2-3 ft/lb may be in order) is to use a 1/4" drive set so you can't get too much leverage, o using the little finger to apply pressure if using a ring spanner or allen key
I don't understand why you would use an ASC or grease on a fastener that has been threadlocked to prevent it working loose due to vibration or whatever. Use of threadlock can also prevent corrosion. I have red and blue threadlock, can't remember what brand, it's not Loctite but blue is for use on fasteners that may require frequent removal and red is for more permanent fittings. I've also used graphite paste as an ASC in the past, especially where high temperatures are an issue. On the torque issue I also found that tightening by feel can be way over. I had two wheel studs shear off last year on the car so, after replacing them I torqued them correctly with a wrench to the required 70lb/ft and it just felt way too little. I must've been hitting over 100lb/ft with the "feel" method.
You should still threadlock things that are recommend to do so unless you want to check the torque setting before each ride
