After a few issues with my 2011 Speed Triple clutch Dragging.... Sticky residue on the plates after cheaper oil used.... Works likes light switch.... I removed the clutch straight after a 35 minute ride and it wad bone dry I have read Triumph updated the clutch pin to a newer spec but I can't get any pics of one to see if mine is different to the new one Hence modding my pin to something more along the lines of my old CBR600RR pin to increase oil flow CBR600RR Pin My modded pin I shall let you all know if this improves my clutch
I've no experience with the Triumph clutch but I've had plenty of wet plate clutches apart on other makes and they, if I remember right, were supplied with oil down the centre of the drive shaft and that would seem to be the case here hence the "relief" on the clutch pin as seen in your pic so I can follow your logic in filing the flat spot to allow oil past. They also ran in a bath of oil at the bottom as the design of the engine allowed this due to the oil level in the sump but the clutch on the triumph seems too high for this given that the dipstick indicates the oil level to be a bit lower than the bottom of the clutch. I was just wondering if in your investigations you have checked if there is a blockage in the oil feed down the drive shaft as you say the clutch was dry moments after stopping the engine?
Good point....I shall check it out.... When I removed the clutch pin there was some oil then run out into the clutch hub....not much but then the bike was on its side stand so the oil feed shaft was pointing upwards The feed shaft is only very very slightly bigger than the clutch pin so it seems obvious to me (an uneducated non engineer) that the oil will struggle to flow past as the pin WAS a cylindrical shaft into said feed hole
Have you removed the clutch basket from the shaft, on all the clutches I've ever seen before there was an oilway drilled through the shaft where the bearing for the clutch basket was located. I hope you can find an easy solution to your problem cos I fear a full strip down if there is a blockage somewhere. Good luck. Ps, for an "uneducated non engineer" you have some good tools, digital vernier gauge and well made vice protectors tell me there's a level of competence on display here.
Not removed it on this bike.... There is oil ways drilled into the inside of the clutch hub to allow the oil through to the plates from the end of the pin shaft
Early signs look good.... Gearchange felt a lot better this morning A lot smoother up and down, got the odd clonky change like I was shifting a Massey Ferguson but I think that is just our bikes 'character' as the Italians say..... Normally when I get to work I can't get neutral at all as the lever is solid till the engine is turned off.....This morning it was a lovely little click and the green light of neutralitys face lit up Hopefully I'll get it warmed up a bit more on the way home and check the drag again after riding like a knob for a bit Watch this space......
Well that was weird..... Riding home last night clutch was dragging everywhere, clonky changes, the lot.... Riding in this morning and it was a halfway house not too bad but a bit draggy.... Got to the bike park and got neutral nice and easy, went up and down the box a few times and then neutral was impossible to get, loads of dragging.... After dismissing everything else it must be temperamental clutch plates.... Can I find an EBC replacement for my bike (2011 + Speed Triple) NO and the up to 07 one they do is different going by the part numbers on Triumph parts site BUT.....I see EBC do one for the Tiger 1050 07-12 which on the parts site has the same part numbers as the 2011+ Speed Triple So that is what I shall get !
Yes mate but I'll give it another poking when I open her up again.... Said the actress to the bishop...... Looking at the parts site again my bike uses different clutch plate part numbers compared to the round eye model But uses the same part numbers for clutch basket and clutch hub Mine are the same part number as Sprint GT/Tiger 1050 etc. Which all seem to have the issue from the clutch Could it be a material change on the plates causing all the agro for bug eyed models and others ?
Just re read the start of this thread, I see you used cheap oil in the past. I was going to say,in a Sprint forum I use a lot of the guys with 1050s and 955s too have problems with clutch drag and it seems either silkolene or motul are the way to go. I think you are doing the right thing now coz the plates could be contaminated and it will be easier to change them, fresh oil of a good standard and I would think you are good to go. Before you do though I assume you have the cable adjusted correctly as I believe this is critical on those bikes, maybe the clutch cable is worn and stretching. If you have changed the levers have you omitted the brass ring (clutch lever collar in parts list) coz if the lever is loose this could be the problem too.
Cheers for the input.... The oil was in when I bought it and of an unknown (to me) brand Clutch was fine test riding Serviced before I got it and clutch went downhill after a few days Changed to silkolene and cleaned plates a few weeks ago and is a bit better Tried with different clutch cable tension when riding along but doesn't make any difference, bite point is way out on the lever but drags all the way in Contacted EBC and they said they were doing plates for 2011+ in the summer, told him that as far as I could see they were the same (part numbers) as the Tiger 1050. He checked and replied saying he agreed giving me an EBC part number to use Ordered 10 minutes ago for despatch today so hopefully soak them tomorrow night and fit Thursday after work
Managed to get a pic of the Triumph updated clutch pin from Fowlers... The little swirly groove is different to mine as standard....
I'm guessing so mate.... Hence dry clutches with the older pin... Oh yeah the older pin you can't get was £17 The new improved one which Triumph must have agreed was needed as the old one didnt work £34 Wooooo hoooooo easy money making