I have a Street Triple 765 and I keep finding the battery is dead. Occasionally, this is my fault, leaving the ignition switch on the handlebar (not the key) in the 'down' position, and is nothing the Oxford Oximiser can't put right, given time. But this AM for instance, it starts fine, I turn it off, go inside to put on the gear for less than 10 mins, come out and it's dead. I don't get it - does the battery drain that quickly if you leave the ignition switch on? I'm sure it's my fault there too, just want guidance. Is anyone else experiencing this with their 765?
When you say 'dead' I take it you mean the dash doesn't come alive and there's no indication of any power at all. If this is happening just after it's been running then I'd say it's not your battery but most likely a wiring fault. I'd definitely be taking it back to the dealer whilst it's under warranty!!!!
Thanks for this and sorry for the missing info - no, the dash comes on, it just doesn't turn over. Pretty sure it's the battery, but just wondering why it keeps happening.
I have a 765 and don't have these issues. Do you have a voltmeter? A quick check before cranking and after would soon give you a good indicator of the state of the battery. As others have said I don't think this is an internal battery fault; possibly a starter relay issue.
Post up your numbers. Connect voltmeter before switching on = ww volts Key switched on = xx volts Cranking = yy volts Running = zz volts
ContactSC. Get it back to the dealer. The bike is not right and while you have warranty let them sort it. Ride Safe Joe.
So, before switching on = 11.72V. Key on - starts at 10V but then continually drops, 0.1 per second Does not crank or start. So I think @stinger was probably right too. Bought a brand new battery and it seems to be working (but have also bought one of those powerbank jump starters too, which I'll keep with me!)
Check the voltage between terminals engine running. About 13 volts at tickover and 14ish blipped throttle. It confirms your charging circuit is healthy and that the problem was purely use/battery related.
At those voltages mate you are quite a way off before you start. A battery is a collection of cells normally six each giving 2.2 volts so fully charged in good condition you should be looking around 13 volts. Around 11 volts bare minimum when cranking is required for the injection and other demands. Confirm charging when running as pointed out is around 14 volts and all should be good to go.
