I hope you guys can shed some light: My 2007 Triumph Speed Triple 1050 starts to perform poorly a little before the low fuel light illuminates. Then it continues to sound like it is choking on itself until new fuel is added. What could cause that? I have ran some SeaFoam through the bike, maybe did too much, ran two tanks of 89 ethanol-free gas with about a third of the small bottle of SeaFoam, and bike responded favorably to that treatment, better performance, up until the low fuel light. I have also replaced the oil and filter, the air filter, and the spark plugs. When I opened the air filter cover there was about one quarter to one half inch of oil pooled inside, nearest the seat side of the air filter casing. I have ridden an entire tank full of gas. At this point, I was thinking of siphoning all the gas that is left in the bike out, in case there might be moisture or water in it. My uncle says to put Stabil in the tank, so going to do that, he says works great on his boats and jetski's. Anyone ever experience these things? Also, the bike has a rough time starting. Has a brand new Yuasa Battery, and sometimes even at full 100% charge the starter does not even turn. Then if you roll the bike forwards and backwards, the starter comes to life and sometimes starts the bike on one crank of the starter, or less, and sometimes it takes about 5 seconds of cranks, before she rumbles to 1200 rpm. When the starter does not start the bike, usually nothing happens, you press the start button and no sound or anything. This is after the fuel pump sounds have made their noises and stopped and after the christmas tree lights on the controls have done their thing. All fuses are good to go and proper sizes. Please give me any thoughts you think I should try next. I was looking at and thinking of trying to see if the starter could be repaired versus the new 475 dollar starter motor, not to mention what the local Floridian Triumph dealer would charge in labor at 110$ per hour. Does that seem like a high rate? Seems pretty high to me.
Maybe Jack’s onto something here. Try opening the fuel cap slightly when it starts running rough and see if it improves. It could be the cap vent that’s partially blocked. Obviously be careful about fuel spillage As for the oil in the airbox, when you emptied it out did you also take the crankcase breather off and clean it out? This could be getting blocked too. Starter, as above. As well as earths it’s worth checking all the connections to the starter and solenoid for corrosion or poor contact. Start switch is also a good one to check over too. If that doesn’t help and you end up pointing to the starter they are rebuildable, brush kits available. WRT labour charges, not a clue being from the better side of the Atlantic! It’ll always be much dearer at a main dealer, find yourself a recommended independant mechanic.
Don’t know how to switch to reserve or if bike even has one; hashtag gonna check owners manual for this and thanks for the reply
Ya, have been looking going to continue and thanks for the reply gonna see what I can find on those points, thanks again
You know what, I had a tank bag before and now that I removed it the bike is a little better but the low fuel low perf still present
Check the starter motor cos of having to roll it to start, and possibly water in the fuel, siphon it out and put in fresh and see what happens.
After replacing air filter with OEM air filter and oem oil filter bike runs better; but excessive amounts of oil is pooling in lower part of air filter case
My airbox was improperly seated and now that I’ve seated it properly and the seafoam has ran out the bike seems to be running better, no chugging; but it is having the starting issues still, going to replace solenoid first since the starter is more expensive and sometimes bike turns over and sometimes all it does is go click when push start When it just goes click if I Rock bike back and forth in neutral the starter will engage and sounds weak
Airbox not seated proper Little phalange was not in the hole and risers were not flush inside airbox, there was areas where fittings were not flush around, not clicked in right
Seems like getting there, today when went to start bike, pressed start, and no click sound, no noise at all, after the fuel pump charged and gauges did their thing. When pressing start, bike didn't do a thing. So did the rock forward rock back and still nothing. Then tried barely squeezing in the clutch and this time the starter started turning over. Also, when was originally trying to start after the rocking, the clutch control was all the way squeezed in. Anyone encounter this before? #TheRabbitHoleDeepens
The only thing that springs to mind is a dodgy safety lock out switch in the clutch mechanism. I am not familiar with Speedy electrics but I would agitate and blast the little switch in the web of the clutch lever with contact cleaner or WD40.
Cool, could you post a picture of what you're talking about, I think I know; but, not entirely sure.?
The problem with the bike not wanting to start sometimes, just a click and no starter engagement, or just no sound and no action seems to be better after adjusting this little button right here in this picture. You see those wires and the connector, well there was about a mm or two of play there, so I put the wires inside that metal band that presses against the clutch adjustment wheel, look a the next picture I post and that seems to have fixed it. Before moving the wires, I was able to push the button in better and the bike fired right up; whereas, and beforehand, it had not.
