My america efi won’t run no power to the pump dash lights and the starter all fuses ok battery good please help , regards skywalker
Start with battery you need a certain amount of power to turn over otherwise the ECU wont let you try. Even a strong reading is not always a guarantee of a good battery. Multi meter? Dont run out and spend on a new one. Test this one
Good morning battery is new with full charge . Fuses all good lighting all good just the starting circuit. Starter dash lights fuel pump . Regards skywalker
Sprinter is right mate You might think that the battery is charged but it must have 12.6volts or the ECU won’t play ball My 09 Speedmaster is exactly the same....12.6volts or nothing happens Have a check with a multi meter or put the battery on charge Really can’t emphasise enough the battery must have at least 12.6volts
With your voltmeter, check the following : Sidestand switch; clutch switch; kill switch. If any of these are not working correctly they will not open the starting circuit.
thebiglad, post: 167031, member: 655"]With your voltmeter, check the following : Sidestand switch; clutch switch; kill switch. If any of these are not working correctly they will not open the starting circuit.[/QUOTE] h Hi
Had this problem a few years ago on my Multistrada it turned out to be a fault on the sidestand switch. Cleaned all the crap off white greased it all re assembled and bingo job done. Good luck.
Something I’ve done before and is a little bit embarrassing is use the kill switch to stop the engine before removing the key No problem with that except that I hardly ever use the kill switch so when I’ve gone back to the bike and it won’t start I found myself checking fuses etc with a multi meter This was in my garage but I have on occasion done this whilst out riding and stopped for a coffee or something Felt pretty dumb when I realised what I’ve done Have a look mate and if you find the kill switch in the off position your problem could be solved Then to save embarrassing yourself you could say that you’re an electrical wizard and completely overhauled the electrical system and fixed it through the process of elimination Or you could tell the truth and we’ll all laugh at you
Not as dumb as me when I did the same thing with the Enfield - 10 minutes of trying to kick start the bugger until I realised! (and yes - people were watching. Why is that when it starts first kick there is no one around to witness your startling achievement?)
That never happened to me although once I am an electrical wizard and completely overhauled the electrical system and fixed it through the process of elimination
Starting System Symptoms: Weak battery symptoms: -- Slow cranking. -- Stops cranking suddenly on compression stroke with button pressed. -- Starts when starter button is released at end of cranking. Repair: -- Charge/Test/Replace battery. Failure Modes: -- Loss of capacity. Appears to charge, voltage good but no reserve for starting. -- Won't hold a charge. -- Low voltage/cell failure. Preventative Maintenance: -- Check fluid levels regularly -- Maintain full charge: Regular riding, trickle charger. Ignition Coil failure symptoms: -- Hard starting/misfiring during cranking. -- Rough idle that can't be tuned out with carb adjustments and carb cleaning. -- Idle misfire clears with new sparkplugs, returns in a few hundred miles Repair: -- Replace: Preferably with Nology for higher reliability than stock Gill coils. Failure Mode: -- Shorted turns in secondary resulting in weak spark. Preventative Maintenance: -- None Testing: Pickup Coil failure symptoms: -- No spark at all -- Spark quits with engine hot, returns when engine cool. -- Note: Pickup coil failure is total. There is no random misfire spark loss. Repair: -- Replace pickup coil Failure mode: -- Thermal intermittant with long (15-30 minute) period. Preventative Maintenance: -- None. Get a spare. Testing: -- Ohms checks hot and cold. Worn starter symptoms: -- Sometimes won't crank until the bike is rocked in gear. -- Excessively noisy cranking with a grinding sound. -- Click from under seat but no cranking. Failure Mode: -- Brush wear progressing to commutator damage. -- Bearing failure related to brush wear. Repair: -- Rebuild or replace. Preventative Maintenance: -- Maintan battery in peak condition. -- Follow proper starting procedures. Neutral, clutch in. -- Crank 5-10 seconds at a time max., switch off for twice as long before cranking again. Worn sprag clutch symptoms: -- Very loud rattling when cranking -- Starter spins but engine doesn't turn Falure Mode: -- Breakage Repair: -- Replace sprag clutch Preventative Maintenance: -- Maintain battery in peak condition. -- Follow proper starting procedures. Neutral, clutch in. Worn starter solenoid: -- Click from under seat but no cranking. -- Won't crank after rocking bike. -- Starter continues to run after bike starts and won't stop until the battery is disconnected. Failure mode: -- Internal contact damage resulting in non-conduction. -- Internal contact damage resulting in contacts welding shut. -- Internal damage/wear prevents solenoid core movement. Preventative Maintenance: -- None. Repair: -- Replace starter solenoid. Testing: -- For no cranking, short across solenoid high-power terminals. Normal operation denotes failed solenoidcontacts. ------------------