American Motorcycle Engineering Inc based in North Hollywood, California started business in 1967 or 1968. (They went out of business in 1979 or 1980). In their day, they specialised in the manufacture and supply of custom chopper parts for early 70s Hondas (450s up to 750s). Their frames became quite popular for the big Honda Fours and they soon moved into frames for the Kawi 900 engines, HD Sportsters, Yam 650s and the T120, T140 Triumphs of the 1970s. They supplied bolt on and full hardtail frames. Their best known, or probably best remembered, frame was the 'Savior' bolt on or full frame. Some say Savior was short for "Save your Ass" but it probably went with the AMEN company title. The frames looked like rigid hardtails but incorporated two springs to take some of the pounding that the hardtail riders had to endure in those days. They never had any springs under the seats in the 70s like the 'Bobbers' of today. Amen's advertising called it "the soft one that looks hard". It was important to look hard in the 70s . Here's the page from their brochure showing the sprung unit and associated parts. Pretty, aint it? Well, maybe not. They are very popular now with some of the vintage chop boys, check out the moulding that was done back in the day. Can you dig it? There is a section showing that the Savior tool kit had "special devices for disassembling the suspension system". But it wasn't recommended that they were taken apart. I can't find the pictures of the 'special devices' and do not have the instructions for their use. I have, however, taken these things apart and having seen some of the youtubers showing the use of large hammers and screwdrivers and even some good forums suggesting cable ties to hold compressed springs. I thought I'd help with a more erm... sedate method of removal.
Here's the bike I'm building at the moment. It has an Amen Savior full custom frame and has had the lead moulding removed. Yep, that was what was done back then by very skilled guys melting lead to fill and using bondo (filler) to finish and sand. Paint has been removed and more or less ready to strip and make pretty before rebuilding. Here's the sprung 'Savior' section now the bike's disassembled. The Saviors normally have a flat top crown nut, this came with the "spikey" ones.
Here we go. I'll use the part names from the brochure above. Take off the Top Crown Nut Remove the Guide Plate (note the facing of the flat section for reassembly) There's a threaded hole in the top of the Axle Shaft The threaded hole will be used to compress the top spring. So make up a "Special Device" from a length of threaded bar (I think this is 5/16th standard thread, but will check), a length of tubing a few washers and three nuts. Note that two of the nuts will act as locking nuts to hold the threaded bar while de-compressing the spring. This could result in causing a hole in the roof of the garage if the threaded bar is allowed to unscrew and shoot out at a great many knots. This would surprise both you and the fiddler on the roof). Build the "Special device" and screw into the threaded hole as far as it will go (not just a couple of turns, get it in all the way). Note that the bottom washer and tube will need to be able to pass into the rectangular frame section so that the spring compresses as far as possible.
Using two ring spanners, hold the top lock nuts still while turning the bottom nut to compress the top spring. Keep going until the top spring has been compressed completely. That is when there are no gaps showing between the coils of the spring. Be aware that, sometimes, these springs will become bound and will not compress fully. If that is the case then undo the compression nut until loose and compress again, the spring will usually then compress fully. (I have no idea why they do this, they just do) The bottom Nut, Locking Washer (Tab Washer) and Guide Plate can then be removed. Again note the position of the vertical section on the guide plate. The bottom spring is now fairly easily compressed by pushing the frame down onto a piece of wood I've no idea how to remove the last duplicated picture so ignore it, sorry
With the spring compressed, turn the bottom Bushing 90 degrees so that it can be removed through the rectangular frame. This can be done by using just your fingers or by using a screwdriver to turn the bushing and/or turning the Axle shafts with the screwdriver in the axle hole. Once turned It can be removed from the Axle Shaft
Assuming the top spring has been fully compressed, as per above. The bottom of the axle shaft and springs will tip out of the frame housing And the bottom spring will slide off The axle shaft is positioned back into the frame housing And the top spring is decompressed. This is where the top two lock nuts of the "Special Device" are needed to be held. Otherwise there is a risk that the threaded bolt will unscrew from the top of the axle shaft and there will be an injured fiddler to reckon with.
Take off the "Special Device" and stash away for future use in the special tools drawer The Top Bushing can now easily be turned 90 degrees and removed The top spring and axle shaft can be tipped over and taken out Here's all the bits as they are within the frame housing. These, normally, have a very nice chrome finish but mine were sprayed a very nasty matt black that has been removed previously. Surprisingly, some spares are still available in the US on fleabay. Repeat on t'other side. Replacing is the reverse of removal. I'll do a photo shoot when it's all going back together - or alternatively read this post upwards instead of downwards. Over