2022 Street Triple Rs Battery Maintenance - Help!

If it is at all possible I would run power to the garage and use a decent battery tender like an Optimate that does far more than just put some juice into the battery.

 

Rich no idea about your charger.....but in case you dont know.....a small bike battery needs a low amp charge rate ie less than 1amp....so needs a charger suitable for small bike batts.

My £15 bike batt charger monitor delivers 0.8amp max.

Do you have no mains electricity in your garage???

No idea what you new charger puts out but you scared me when you mentioned it delivers 20amp.

 

Hi Rich, it is really very straightforward and easy, what needs to be done is make up an 18-inch length of twin wire (red/black) crimp eye terminals to one end (to go on the battery), remove the ctek crocodile clips and then put male connectors to the wires from the battery and the 2 female connectors to replace the crocodile clips on the ctek, you can then place the wires from the battery under the rear seat pod. You can then connect/disconnect at your leisure. If you don't have any connectors, then your local Halfords store will have what you require. Please remember that when connecting the wires to your battery that you keep finger pressure on the positive lead and the same with the negative, otherwise warning lights will come on the dash, then you will have to take it to the dealer (or use the dealertool if you have one). If you lived nearer, I would offer to do it for you, honestly it only takes 15min all in.

 

I’ve had the battery out of my 2021 R a number of times to remove the pillion footrests and fit Evotech blanking plates and some purpose made luggage rack hangers. No problems with warning lights coming on, just needed to reset date and time and all was good.

On the subject of the battery terminals and fitting additional leads to the terminals. You may find that with the extra thickness of the terminals the screw will not quite reach the captive nut if it has fallen to the bottom of the battery terminal recess in which it resides. My solution was to snip a small piece of lead sheet that when folded double will just sit under the nut in the recess. Being lead there will be no problem with the screw driving into it when tightening it.

I have fitted one of these and located it under the pillion seat. Just a glance at the LEDs will give an indication as to battery condition. As for connectors to your Ctek I would run with the SAE ones to prevent any possibility of reversing the polarity. You can also get the above lead without the inline fuse but I always fuse any additional connections to the battery.

 

The RS TFT dash and electronics are a lot different to the R and battery disconnection will trigger some warning lights on, the ctek has reverse polarity built in, but using correct red/black wiring it would be very difficult to place + on - or vice versa, the battery leads retaining fasteners on the RS are long enough to take the additional fittings with no problems.

 

Ah, had not realised this problem with the TFT screen models. Not being able to swap a battery without involving the dealer is a bit off. I would still stick with the SAE connectors though.

I understand that Dealertool is not available on Macs which is a bummer as I am just about to go over to the Dark Side entirely, having had my fill of Windows hardware and Microsoft software.

 

Buy a solar battery maintenance charger like car dealerships use. Slap it on the shed roof and run wires inside.

 

Alternatively, as your bike/battery is new, just run your bike for twenty minutes per week over the winter.

 

I do similar to you but with an important twist.

Wire the bike positive terminal to a FEMALE bullet via an inline fuse so it has protection from shorting.
Wire the bike negative terminal to a MALE bullet.

If you use twin cable i e. Two seperate wires in one outer sheath, and cut the ends short then they can't be joined by anyone fiddling.

This lead sits under the seat or side panel, dependent on model, then its just a simple connection to charge.

 

Your suggestion of alternating the gender of the connectors is exactly what the SAE connector does but all in the single plug.

 

Excellent suggestion.

 

But I have loads of crimp connectors in my box and they are versatile for other needs plus cheap.
I used to use the optimate supplied twin connector (presumably this is the SAE one you note) but found they suffered quite badly from corrosion. Doing it with normal crimps means any issue I can simply chop it off and add another.

 

The amount of juice produced by the alternator is directly related to engine speed not road speed.

 

Poster might be familiar with some older bikes that don't charge well at all at idle, some would even discharge at engine idle speeds.

 

100% go with the solar battery maintenance option as suggested by @xorbe Some are cheaper than others and I guess up to a point you get what you pay for
https://www.sportsbikeshop.co.uk/mo...I3wHc0YOxhuVizdjx4f3gjXiI_jNx8bMaAlqPEALw_wcB

 

I went with the 20amp version and it works very well. Keeps my battery fully charged.

Alfie