Just had a look at the website myself and it lists the same part number for 2016+ and 2018 (PRN013124-01). https://evotech-performance.com/collections/triumph-speed-triple-motorcycle-parts/YEAR_2018 The tail itself hasn't changed for 2018 and I moved my old tidy from my 2016 bike to my new 2018 bike.
I had the tail tidy moved from my 2017 to the 2018, it fitted, but seems to leave a gap in the mudguard that goes straight into the tail storage area. It's sealed with some silicon for now, but I did wonder if it's missing something or they're all like that*? *I didn't notice the gap on my 2017 but may just have not seen it.
There was a gap on my 2016, and now I've moved it to the 2018...I have a similar gap. I temporarily stuffed blue paper towel into the voids (mostly adjacent to the tail light) to stop water migrating anywhere near the storage area (sounds daft but it works and the towel dries out...and the towel is still there). The R&G tidy sealed better, but was a bugger to fit as it's bendy and lacks the precision cut of the Evotech.
I'm always saying this...but check that the thick rubber pad used to cushion the OEM tail untidy has been REMOVED. That would create a big gap
No, that is removed At least I know it's not just mine. I did notice the worst gap now is actually around the tail light. Might have to try the the blue paper towel approach
Here's an update for anyone that's awake and still interested. Running in progress has been slow due to busy weekends, but I've cleared 600 miles and what a difference the new 7000 RPM (recommended) limit makes. It's really coming alive. First oil service was on Thursday - costing a total of £63, which seems remarkably fair. Apparently the labour cost is free (or included in the purchase price). I've had two problems that were both dealt with instantly and with no issue whatsoever under warranty Firstly, the rubber tank pad kept peeling off. They gave me another to attach myself, but I removed the original, cleaned the tank with Isopropyl alcohol, and it stuck back solid. I guess they stick them straight on to waxed paintwork. I checked others in the showroom while I was waiting...and they were all like that! The replacement is set aside as a spare. The second problem was that the '19:20:21' brake modulation adjustment wheel wouldn't rotate. It was stuck at 20 and a half, and the brake action was fierce with a really hard feel to the lever. Apparently the adjuster is part of the master cylinder, so they replaced the entire assembly (including the braided brake line). The feel is vastly improved with it set to 19. On with the running in!
That's interesting Mr T, my tank pad has also starting to come away. I think I will go back and get them to sort it. I had my service done a couple of week ago and the cheeky feckers have charged me labour it came to £144! I did question it at the time and was told it been a recent change of policy.....
Nice one all good information. I’ve ordered mine now. Hopefully pick it up middle of this month. Can’t wait! Obviously it’ll start raining from then on! With ref to running in, do they advise using different revs within the limit or is it ok to get on the motorway, set cruise control to pass the miles as fast as possible? Cheers!
When running in its important to load the engine under acceleration and very the revs as much as possible, constant revs will glaze the bores.
It perplexes me that they don't know how to stick on a tank pad - it's ALL in the preparation of the surface that it's to be stuck to As for the service, maybe it's a Lind / Jack Lilley dealership thing? I was reading this post about rust on the modern classics - it's such a different story to my nothing-but-positive experiences of owning two successive Speed Triples...but must be highly dependant on which dealer you're using too.
I bet you can't wait - make sure you report back Running in is a contentious subject, but I'm a firm believer in stretching the bike with the limits set by the manufacturer. Use all the revs that they allow through each mileage band and follow two simple rules - 1) don't let the engine labour at low revs and 2) don't sit at the same revs for an extended period. What you want is plenty of acceleration and deceleration within the limits. The RS has a brilliant Running In mode that indicates the limit automatically, appropriate to the miles that you've covered. The tachometer will turn from blue to orange when it reaches 3,500 RPM for the first 100 miles (this is extremely painful and frustrating and means just under 60mph in gear 6 and it plays havoc with your flow through the twisties), then the limit increases to 5,000 RPM from 100 to 300 miles and so on. Peel the sticker of your tank and the bike handles the rest. I don't think it hurts to exceed the limits from time to time, but I do my best to stick to it. This guy gives a great explanation (in my opinion):
Running in was painful, but with 1100 on the clock, and with some trepidation, I'm thinking we're ready for a track day. It might be kind to do another oil change first, perhaps.